Thursday, January 19, 2017

Medieval Arabic alcoholic honey beverages

Although alcohol is considered forbidden (haraam) in Islamic culture, only the most conservative countries actively ban the consumption of alcohol. Drinking in private and by select parties is far from uncommon among modern Muslims, and was even more common in history, before the introduction of tobacco and coffee as substitutes. Pre-Islamic Arabic poetry is famous for its odes to wine, and even Caliph's, such as the Abbasid ruler Haroun al-Rashid of One Thousand and One Night fame, were reputed to indulge, despite their title of "commanders of the faithful". 
This may be due to doubt as to whether the Qur'an actually prohibits the consumption of alcohol, or merely recommends moderation and/or abstinence. Or might be simple human nature, knowing something is better for you does not guarantee better behavior, at all times. What I do know is that several medieval Arabic cookbooks list alcoholic beverages, some inferred, some plainly listed, which indicates alcoholic beverages would have been requested and available. And the copious wine loving poetry, going into great details, does suggest the effects of the consumption of alcohol were well known, even if only from a distance.

108. Syrups, electuaries, and others.
The best resat jellies are taken in the winter for a stiff neck. It is useful, with God's help. Ten dawariq of the best juice from pulp of the grape is taken. A dawariq is 4 1/2 ratls. It is cooked over a low fire until its foam disappears. Then the best genuine honey is put in. The proportion is one ratl of honey for every five ratls. It is boiled over a low fire until its foam also disappears. 1/2 of it evaporates. Then 1 dirham each is taken of Lesser cardamom, Cardamom, Ceylonese cinnamon, Clove, Long pepper. It is well pulverized and put into a fine linen cloth. Then it is thrown into the decoction after the froth has been removed. When the cooking is over, it is possible to introduce the hand into it. The powder is macerated into it strongly. It is taken out and 3 dirhams of Saffron put into (the liquid). It is put into flasks and the tops are stoppered. After a little sun is allowed on it, one may use it. The older it gets, the better, God willing.

This recipe could go either way, it might make a delicious non-alcoholic syrup, or a delicious alcoholic mead. What tips me off for fermentation is to place it in the sun for a little while: covered, the heat would help fermentation, and uncovered would give the opportunity for catching wild yeast for a wild ferment. The fact that it is cooked does not necessarily mean it is boiled, several medieval English recipes use the words boiling and simmering while from context it is clear the must never got hot enough to melt wax. As yeast can survive temperatures slightly higher than the melting point of wax, it is feasible, as the must is heated over a slow fire, that ambient honey yeast survived to kickstart fermentation without the need for a wild-ferment. Of course the biggest clue is that the older it gets, the better it becomes, God willing, which would not be the case with sterile fruit syrup (think of store bought pasteurized apple cider which goes bad, as compared to farm bought fresh apple cider, which goes fizzy!).


Aqrabadhin of al-Kindi by Abu Yusuf Ya'qub ibn Ishaq al-Kindi, c. 800-870 CE
The Medical Formulary, or Aqrabadhin, of Al-Kindi by Martin Levey, Univ. of Wisconsin Press, 1966. http://web.raex.com/~obsidian/arabmead.html

A recipe for raisin wine (nabīdh zabībī):
Take 50 raţls (50 pounds) zabīb (raisins) [and put them aside]. Take 30 raţls (30 pounds) bees’ honey, which has been [boiled] and skimmed of its froth. Add half its amount of water [30 cups]. Bring them to a vigorous boil. Add the raisins [to the boiling liquid] as well as 20 raţls (40 cups) water. Boil the mix then strain it to get rid of the raisin seeds. Flavor it with 5 dirhams (15 grams) saffron, 5 dirhams (15 grams) spikenard, 3 dirhams (9 grams) mastic, and 1 dānaq (½ gram) musk. Empty the liquid into glass jars (qawārīr) and stow them away in a shaded place. You can use it after 40 days. It is a wonderful wine.

A recipe for mead (nabīdh ‘asalī) without raisins:
Put 50 raţls (50 pounds) honey in a pot and add 50 raţls (100 cups) water. Let it boil until one third of the liquid evaporates, which amounts to 33 raţls. At this point, add to the pot 2 mithqāls (9 grams) saffron and 2 dirhams (6 grams) mastic. Pour into the pot 5 raţls (10 cups) cold water. Empty the liquid into glass jars (qawārīr). Set them aside in a shaded place for 50 days after which you seal them with mud. Use the wine in winter by mixing one part of it with two parts of musk flavored water (nāfābā). It will be a splendid drink.

Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq’s Tenth-Century Baghdadi Cookbook, 10th CE
Annals of the Caliphs’ Kitchens, English Translation with Introduction and Glossary by Nawal Nasrallah, The Finnish Oriental Society, 60 Helsinki, 1987. The Netherlands, Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV, 2007.


A Drinker's Guide to Islam by Khaleb Diab.
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/belief/2011/oct/08/drinkers-islam-palestinian-beerfest-alcohol

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