What is soap? When a strong hydrolyzing base such as lye
comes into contact with a triglyceride like tallow, soap is formed alongside
with glycerin. A soap molecule has a long fat-loving tail and a water-loving
head which makes it possible for the molecule to bond to both water and to
grease, and thereby dissolve fats and oils into water. Sodium hydroxide (caustic
soda, soda lye, NaOH) makes solid bar soaps, while potassium hydroxide (caustic
potash, potash lye, KOH) makes liquid or soft soaps. This is because of the
difference in their molecular structure: sodium hydroxide is a small molecule
with short and tight molecular bonds, creating soap with a strong crystalline
structure. Potassium hydroxide is large molecule, with long weaker molecular
bonds, creating soap with a weak crystalline structure. On average, the pH of
soap is between 8 to 10. Human skin is around pH 5.5. The higher the pH of
soap, the harsher the soap will be on the skin.
What is medieval
soap? Medieval soaps are made with drip lye, and are either Black Soap,
which is a soft potassium based soap, or White Soap, which is a hard sodium based
soap. In early Renaissance, soap balls became in fashion which were made from
store bought grated hard soap kneaded with botanicals and scents. The lye to
make soft and hard soaps with was made by leaching water through ashes; hardwood
ashes for potassium hydroxide lye, and marine plant ashes like barilla for
sodium hydroxide lye. Ashes are highly concentrated minerals of hydroxides,
nitrates, carbonates, sulfites, etc. depending on how well it is burned. The
completer the burn of the plant material the higher the pH of the lye; in case
of less complete burns like in fire pits and fireplaces lime would be added to help
change left over carbonates into hydroxides to thereby raise the pH of the lye.
Lime, quicklime, unslaked and unquenched lime is all the
same for calcium oxide, before oxidation into calcium hydroxide. Slaked and
quenched lime is already oxidized into calcium hydroxide. As calcining is not a
difficult process, and as lime is easier (or cheaper) to get than calcium
hydroxide, many historic recipes use straight lime. Drip lye has a pH of about
11 while modern lye has a pH of 14 – one big reason why making medieval soap is
so different from modern soap-making.
Handling drip lye therefore is also a lot less dangerous than handling
modern lye, but just in case, do keep some vinegar handy – acid on base
neutralizes like a charm.
Modern hand-made soaps are most often Cold Process soaps; early
medieval soaps are most often Hot Process soaps, and this difference can be
confusing for the re-enactor. In hot-processed soaps the saponification
reaction – as the chemical reaction between lye and fat is called – is
accelerated by adding heat. In contrast; cold-process soaps are poured into molds
and with added insulation or a little radiant heat only then do they saponify. Hot-process soaps saponify completely during
cooking and only then are poured into molds. Hot-process soap making also
differs as it
allows the soap to be fully saponified and almost immediately ready for use after
cool down instead of having to cure for weeks, as the cold-process soaps
requires.
Medieval hot-process soap cooking was quite a bit more
challenging due to the unknown strength and quality of the lye. The purity of
the alkali lye was unreliable, as only naturally found alkalis, such as wood
ashes, were available. The advantage of hot-process is that the exact amount or
purity of lye required for successful saponification is not needed as slight
changes to the ratio of lye or oil can be made during cooking. There was a real
need for good soap and a surprising lack of knowledge on how to properly make
it throughout much of medieval Europe. It was
not until pure crystallized sodium hydroxide was invented and patented by
French chemist Nicolas Leblanc in 1790 that exact measured recipes with
predictable results were possible.
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