Hoe men looghe maken sal / om blaeu mede te verwen - dat tweede capit.
Als ghi blaeu verwē wilt / soe suldy makē stercke looghe / die twee deelen sullen asschen zyn / en̅het derde deel calck / en̅laet dat sieden vier pater noster lanc / en̅schuymet wel. Dan worpt daerna claer was in / wāt dye looghe daer af claer wert. Dan doeghet vāden viere / en̅latet staen sincken twee uren oft daeromtrent. Dan doeget in eenē ketel vyf pondt weede bloemen / dit doet in die voorseyde looghe. Dan hangt dit al te samen over tvier / en̅latet wel wermen sonder sieden. Daerna suldyt doen in een harinck tonne en̅latet daer rusten een half ure: dan suldy darin werpē een half pinte zeems. Roert dit wel met eenen stock en̅decket wel toe een vierēdeel vā eenre ure / so ist bereyt. Neemt nu garē / of linen doec / of wollē laken / of fusteyn / of tghene dat ghi wilt. En wildyt licht blaeu hebben / toe en steket maer eenwerf in / maer wildyt een luttel bruynder hebben steket tweewerf / wildÿt noch bruynder hebben / so steket driewerf in / of so langhe tot dat u bruyn ghenoech is. Als ghy dan gheverwet hebt tghene dat ghi wilt / so sult ghi die cuype laten rusten tot des anderē daechs. Wildy dā noch meer garens of wollen verwen / so suldy weder dye verwe uiter tonnen in uwen ketel werpen / en̅doet daertoe vier quaerten looghen voorseyt / dat dect wel ende latet staen een ure. Dan worpt daer in een half pont bloemen voorseyt hāget alsoe over dat vier ende latet wel wermen sonder sieden. Dan worpet weder in u tonne een pinte zeems daer mede / en̅decket wel / also suldÿt laten staen rusten een vierendeel van eender uren. Dan steket daer weder in het ghene dat u belieft / en̅verwet alsoe voorseyt is.
Item als ghy een cuype sette wilt / soe suldy altyt nemē tot elcke once bloemen een quarte looghen.
How one shall make lye / to dye blue with. That second capit.
If you want to dye blue / so you should make strong lye / the two parts should be ashes / and the third part chalk / and let that simmer four paternoster long / and foam well. Then throw in some clean wax / which will make the lye clear. Then take off the fire / and let it sink two hours or similar. Then put in a kettle five pounds of woad flowers / do this in the aforementioned lye. Then hang this together over the fire / and let it warm well without boiling. After that you should put it in a herring ton and let it rest a half hour: then you should throw in a half pint of life honey. Stir this well with a stick and cover well for a quarter of an hour / so it is made. Now take yarn / of linen cloth / of woolen sheets / of bombazine [a twilled dress fabric of worsted and silk or cotton] / of whatever you like. And if light blue is wanted / go ahead and put it in once / but if a little browner is wanted put it in twice / want it even browner / put it in three times / or as long until it is brown enough. If you dyed what you wanted / let the tub rest until the next day. Would you want to dye more yarns or woolens / then you should put the dye from the tub into your kettle / and add four quarts previously mentioned lye / and cover well and let stand for an hour. Then throw in a half pound previously mentioned flowers, hang over the fire and let warm well without simmering. Then throw again in your ton a pint of life honey / and cover well / also you should let it rest a quarter of an hour. Then add again that which you would like / and dye as is mentioned.
Item if you want to prepare a vat / so should you always take to each ounce flowers a quart of lye.
T bouck van wondre, 1513, edited by H.G.Th. Frencken. Printed by H. Timmermans, Roermond 1934 http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/fren007tbou01_01/colofon.htm Translation by © Susan Verberg, 2016
To restore the lost color to a garment
Take one pound of crushed weyd ashes and pour four mass of water thereon. Let it stand a night, and then pour off the lye and take two ox galls and a handful of dried birch leaves, mix them together in the lye and let it boil together a half hour or until the leaves sink to the bottom. Let it cool; then, whichever color you would restore, add wool shearings dyed that color to the lye and boil it again and let it stand fourteen days or longer. The lye will take the color from the wool. Then pour it off and wash the cloth therein that you wish to renew. In this way the color returns again to the cloth.
Allerley Mackel: To remove stains from cloth, velvet, silk, gold stuffs and clothing these stains being of grease, oil or wine stains or any other kinds, and how to do this easily without damage, with waters or lyes as will be taught in this booklet. Thereto also how to restore clothing which has lost its color, as well as how one dyes yarn and linen, and also wood and bone, in a variety of colors. Printed in Mainz by Peter Jordanim, March 1532. Translation © 2005, Drea Leed
According to Drea Lead of http://www.elizabethancostume.net/dyes/allerley.html:
The exact translation of the term "weyd" is problematic. The phonetic spelling could refer to willow ashes (weidt) or woad ashes (waid). Both willow and woad ashes are mentioned in T Bouck va Wondre, a Dutch spot-cleaning and fabric dyeing manual of the early 16th century. In addition, weyd aschen could be the 16th c. German equivalent of the dutch wee assen, or "common ashes" from the hearth.
My interpretation from a soap makers point of view is that "weyd" is a phonetic spelling for the English "white" and that the ingredient mentioned is "white ashes". Not only does the first recipe mention it would make a strong lye, as white ashes are wont to do, "weyd" pronounced sounds very similar to the English "white" and the term white ashes has been in use in English soap recipes since the early middle ages.
Pag. 6 - Om te maken dat een laken zyn verwe verloren heeft / wederom keere in sinen eerstē staet.
Neemt onghebluscht calck twee oncen / potasschen een once / claer water twee pondē / menghet al dese dinghen te samen / ende laetse die tijt van een half ure / ende wasschet dlaken daer inne / dat gedaen / het sal wederome in zyn verwe keeren.
Pag. 6 - To make happen that a sheet which lost its dye / once again be like it first was.
Take unslaked lime two ounces / potash one ounce / clear water two pounds / mix all these things together / and let stand in the time of half an hour / and wash the sheet therein / that done / it shall once again returned as dyed.
Een nieuw tractaat ghenoemt dat Batement van Recepten inhoudende drye deelen van Recepten. Anderwerf gecorrigeerd ende verbetert. Gheprint T Antwerpen op die Lombaerde veste teghen over den ijshont bij mij Hans de Laet van Stabroeck 1546-kl. 8o. Een secreetboek uit de zestiende eeuw (ed. Willy L. Braekman) onderdeel van T bouck va wondre. Omirel UFSAL, Brussel 1990
A new manuscript named that House of Recipes containing three parts of recipes. Otherwise corrected and improved. Printed in Antwerp at the Lombaerde Veste opposite the icedog by me Hans de Laet of Stabroeck 1546-kl. 80. A book of secrets of the sixteenth century (ed. Willy L. Braekman) part of T bouck van wondre. Omirel UFSAL, Brussel 1990.
For digital text: http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_bat002wlbr01_01/colofon.htm
To die a Crimson colour.
Scrape hard sope, and so melt in common water, and put your
silke in a linnen or thin canuasse bag, and so put it into the kettle to the
soped water, and let it boile softly halfe an hour space, but stir it oft for
burning, then wash it in salt water first, and after in fresh water, for each
pound of silk, take a li. or more of Allom, laide sufficient in colde water,
& therein put your silk without your bag, and let it rest therein viii
houres, then take and wash it in fresh water, then wring it, & put it in
the panne to the crimsine colour, being wel stampt & cleane, tak 4 ounces,
and boyle it with so much water as will couer your silke foure fingers aboue the
water, & to each pound of crimsine colour, put too three ounces of galles
in fine pouder, or in steed thereof yee may put in halfe an ounce of arsnick,
which is not very wholesome because of the fume, nor the water thereof, and
when it boyleth put in your silk as aforeprepared, and there let it boyle a
quarter of an houre then wring it a little, and drye it in the shade, and so it
will bee faire.Als ghi blaeu verwē wilt / soe suldy makē stercke looghe / die twee deelen sullen asschen zyn / en̅het derde deel calck / en̅laet dat sieden vier pater noster lanc / en̅schuymet wel. Dan worpt daerna claer was in / wāt dye looghe daer af claer wert. Dan doeghet vāden viere / en̅latet staen sincken twee uren oft daeromtrent. Dan doeget in eenē ketel vyf pondt weede bloemen / dit doet in die voorseyde looghe. Dan hangt dit al te samen over tvier / en̅latet wel wermen sonder sieden. Daerna suldyt doen in een harinck tonne en̅latet daer rusten een half ure: dan suldy darin werpē een half pinte zeems. Roert dit wel met eenen stock en̅decket wel toe een vierēdeel vā eenre ure / so ist bereyt. Neemt nu garē / of linen doec / of wollē laken / of fusteyn / of tghene dat ghi wilt. En wildyt licht blaeu hebben / toe en steket maer eenwerf in / maer wildyt een luttel bruynder hebben steket tweewerf / wildÿt noch bruynder hebben / so steket driewerf in / of so langhe tot dat u bruyn ghenoech is. Als ghy dan gheverwet hebt tghene dat ghi wilt / so sult ghi die cuype laten rusten tot des anderē daechs. Wildy dā noch meer garens of wollen verwen / so suldy weder dye verwe uiter tonnen in uwen ketel werpen / en̅doet daertoe vier quaerten looghen voorseyt / dat dect wel ende latet staen een ure. Dan worpt daer in een half pont bloemen voorseyt hāget alsoe over dat vier ende latet wel wermen sonder sieden. Dan worpet weder in u tonne een pinte zeems daer mede / en̅decket wel / also suldÿt laten staen rusten een vierendeel van eender uren. Dan steket daer weder in het ghene dat u belieft / en̅verwet alsoe voorseyt is.
Item als ghy een cuype sette wilt / soe suldy altyt nemē tot elcke once bloemen een quarte looghen.
How one shall make lye / to dye blue with. That second capit.
If you want to dye blue / so you should make strong lye / the two parts should be ashes / and the third part chalk / and let that simmer four paternoster long / and foam well. Then throw in some clean wax / which will make the lye clear. Then take off the fire / and let it sink two hours or similar. Then put in a kettle five pounds of woad flowers / do this in the aforementioned lye. Then hang this together over the fire / and let it warm well without boiling. After that you should put it in a herring ton and let it rest a half hour: then you should throw in a half pint of life honey. Stir this well with a stick and cover well for a quarter of an hour / so it is made. Now take yarn / of linen cloth / of woolen sheets / of bombazine [a twilled dress fabric of worsted and silk or cotton] / of whatever you like. And if light blue is wanted / go ahead and put it in once / but if a little browner is wanted put it in twice / want it even browner / put it in three times / or as long until it is brown enough. If you dyed what you wanted / let the tub rest until the next day. Would you want to dye more yarns or woolens / then you should put the dye from the tub into your kettle / and add four quarts previously mentioned lye / and cover well and let stand for an hour. Then throw in a half pound previously mentioned flowers, hang over the fire and let warm well without simmering. Then throw again in your ton a pint of life honey / and cover well / also you should let it rest a quarter of an hour. Then add again that which you would like / and dye as is mentioned.
Item if you want to prepare a vat / so should you always take to each ounce flowers a quart of lye.
T bouck van wondre, 1513, edited by H.G.Th. Frencken. Printed by H. Timmermans, Roermond 1934 http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/fren007tbou01_01/colofon.htm Translation by © Susan Verberg, 2016
To restore the lost color to a garment
Take one pound of crushed weyd ashes and pour four mass of water thereon. Let it stand a night, and then pour off the lye and take two ox galls and a handful of dried birch leaves, mix them together in the lye and let it boil together a half hour or until the leaves sink to the bottom. Let it cool; then, whichever color you would restore, add wool shearings dyed that color to the lye and boil it again and let it stand fourteen days or longer. The lye will take the color from the wool. Then pour it off and wash the cloth therein that you wish to renew. In this way the color returns again to the cloth.
Allerley Mackel: To remove stains from cloth, velvet, silk, gold stuffs and clothing these stains being of grease, oil or wine stains or any other kinds, and how to do this easily without damage, with waters or lyes as will be taught in this booklet. Thereto also how to restore clothing which has lost its color, as well as how one dyes yarn and linen, and also wood and bone, in a variety of colors. Printed in Mainz by Peter Jordanim, March 1532. Translation © 2005, Drea Leed
According to Drea Lead of http://www.elizabethancostume.net/dyes/allerley.html:
The exact translation of the term "weyd" is problematic. The phonetic spelling could refer to willow ashes (weidt) or woad ashes (waid). Both willow and woad ashes are mentioned in T Bouck va Wondre, a Dutch spot-cleaning and fabric dyeing manual of the early 16th century. In addition, weyd aschen could be the 16th c. German equivalent of the dutch wee assen, or "common ashes" from the hearth.
My interpretation from a soap makers point of view is that "weyd" is a phonetic spelling for the English "white" and that the ingredient mentioned is "white ashes". Not only does the first recipe mention it would make a strong lye, as white ashes are wont to do, "weyd" pronounced sounds very similar to the English "white" and the term white ashes has been in use in English soap recipes since the early middle ages.
Pag. 6 - Om te maken dat een laken zyn verwe verloren heeft / wederom keere in sinen eerstē staet.
Neemt onghebluscht calck twee oncen / potasschen een once / claer water twee pondē / menghet al dese dinghen te samen / ende laetse die tijt van een half ure / ende wasschet dlaken daer inne / dat gedaen / het sal wederome in zyn verwe keeren.
Pag. 6 - To make happen that a sheet which lost its dye / once again be like it first was.
Take unslaked lime two ounces / potash one ounce / clear water two pounds / mix all these things together / and let stand in the time of half an hour / and wash the sheet therein / that done / it shall once again returned as dyed.
Een nieuw tractaat ghenoemt dat Batement van Recepten inhoudende drye deelen van Recepten. Anderwerf gecorrigeerd ende verbetert. Gheprint T Antwerpen op die Lombaerde veste teghen over den ijshont bij mij Hans de Laet van Stabroeck 1546-kl. 8o. Een secreetboek uit de zestiende eeuw (ed. Willy L. Braekman) onderdeel van T bouck va wondre. Omirel UFSAL, Brussel 1990
A new manuscript named that House of Recipes containing three parts of recipes. Otherwise corrected and improved. Printed in Antwerp at the Lombaerde Veste opposite the icedog by me Hans de Laet of Stabroeck 1546-kl. 80. A book of secrets of the sixteenth century (ed. Willy L. Braekman) part of T bouck van wondre. Omirel UFSAL, Brussel 1990.
For digital text: http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_bat002wlbr01_01/colofon.htm
To die a Crimson colour.
Purfoot, Thomas (1605, first edition 1588) A Profitable Booke, declaring diuers approoued Remedies, to take out spots and staines in Silkes, Veluets, Linnen and Woollen Clothes: With diuers Colours how to die Veluets and Silkes, Linnenn and Woollen, Fustian and Thread: Also to dresse Leather, and to colour Felles. How to guild, graue, sowder, and Vernish. And to harden and make soft Yron and Steele. Verie necessarie for all men, specially for those which haue or shall haue any doing therein: with a perfect Table hereunto, to finde all things readie, not the like reuealed in English heretofore. Taken out of Dutch, and Englished by L. M. Imprinted at London by Thomas Purfoot, dwelling within the Rents, in S. Nicholas Shambles. From Early English Books Online (EEBO) at http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home
What on earth is 'life honey' and 'herring ton'?
ReplyDeleteHi Melanie, I assume a herring ton to be a tun or cask for herring, and life honey is unadulterated honey collected by catching the dripping honey from freshly harvested comb (without cutting or crushing). Since this honey is unheated it harbors ambient osmophilic yeast and could start fermentation (if the honey is diluted). It can also mean the best quality honey and I am guessing the second option is more likely as no fermentation is required in this dyeing recipe. Hope this helps!
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