Monday, August 29, 2016

To make good vinegar - recipes from T bouck va wondre, 1513

Following are the chapters involving the making of vinegar from T bouck va wondre, which also lists many recipes on making wine, dyeing, laundry cleansers and gardening. This book was a resource (no copyright back then) for a number of translations, including the middle English A Profitable Book written in 1605.


The italic recipe is in Middle Dutch, the second my translation into modern English. For the Dutch words not in my modern Dutch vocabulary I used the Old and Middle Dutch translator at


Om van bier azÿn te maken. Capit. LXXI/.
Bierazÿn die sterc is maectmē aldus. Neemt vand' eerster en̅voerster worsse / en̅ maectse se werm dat men nauwe een hant daer in houdē mach. Daer nae doet daer in moere die wat vocht is vā oudē biere / dye moere sal die voorseyde worsse doen siedē en̅doen verwādelen in azÿn. En̅yst dat hi noch niet sterc ghenoech en is / soe doet daer in wit willigen hout / daer salt noch afsueren.


To make vinegar from beer. Capit. LXXI.
Beer vinegar which is strong is made thus. Take of the first and foremost must / and make it warm so that one can barely keep a hand in it. After that put in moere [mother] which is some liquid of old beer / the mother should make the foresaid must go seethe [ferment] and turn into vinegar. And if it is not strong enough / add therein white willow wood / that will surely sour it.


Om alle azÿn te houden in zÿn suerheyt / en in sinē sueren smakē - Dat LXXX capittel.
Neemt eenen tap van groen willighen hout ghemaect stoppende dat gat vāden vate bovē in die ronde bomme reyckende bina den bodem / maer niet al tot beneden toe. Dit sal den azÿn noch suerder doen worden.


To keep all vinegar in its purity / and in its pure taste. That LXXX capittel.
Take a plug made of green willow wood and close the hole of the top of the barrel so that the round tree [plug] almost reaches the bottom / but not all the way to the bottom. This shall make the vinegar only more sour.


Omcrancken azijn goet te makē. Oft vanlandtwÿn goeden azÿn te maken - Dat LXXXI capit.
Backt een gherstē coecxken / en̅alsment alheet uiten oven haelt / salmēt terstōt al in cleyn stucxkēs breken / en̅also werm werpē int vat vāden wyn of quade azy̅/ en̅ hi wort seer goet.


To make unhealthy vingar good again. Or to make good vinegar from land wine. That LXXXI capit.
Bake a barley cake / and when it is taken hot out of the oven / break it immediately in small pieces / and thus throw into the barrel of wine or bad vinegar / and it becomes good again.


Noch een ander maniere.
Snÿt haselroedekēs so lanc als een lidt vā eenē vinger en̅worptse int vāden azy̅ oft wÿn / het wort seer goet.


Yet another way.
Cut hazel twigs as long as a digit of a finger and throw into the barrel of vinegar or wine / it becomes good again.


Om alle manieren vā azÿn te maken - capit. LXXXII.
Men maect ooc azÿn vā druyvē die zeer suer zy̅/ dye selve uit geperst / en̅dan door gedaē. Men sal een luttel oudē azÿn daer toe doen / en̅als hi wel gesonckē is salmen hē uiter moer doē / en̅men sal hē dicwils v'trecken.


To make all kinds of vinegar – capit. LXXXII.
One also makes vinegar of grapes which are very sour / which are pressed / and then added. One shall add a little old vinegar to it / and when it is lowered well shall one take the mother from this / and one shall regularly pull this off.


Om goedē azyn te makē in eenē daghe - Capit. LXXXIII.
Neemt eene pot wÿns / en̅doet daer in rogghen heefdeech seer suer / so groot als een eye of vuyste gebonden in eenen linen doec / en̅settet so bidē viere / het sal seér goeden azÿn wordē.


To make good vinegar in one day – Capit. LXXXIII.
Take one pot wine / and add very sour rye sourdough / as big as the eye of a fist tied in a linen cloth / and place it by the fire / and it will become very good vinegar.

 
Om azÿn te maken in drie daghen - capit. LXXXIV.
Neemt wat alluyns dat men heet alumen scissum / dit doet in wÿn / en̅het wort goedē azÿn.


To make vinegar in three days – capit. LXXXIV.
Take some alum that is called alumen scissum / put this in the wine / and it becomes good vinegar.


REFERENCES

T bouck va wondre, 1513, anonymous; thesis by H.G.Th. Frencken.
Drukkerij H. Timmermans, Roermond 1934

© Translations by Susan Verberg, 2016

To make diverse wines - recipes from T bouck va wondre, 1513

Following are the chapters involving the making of wine from T Bouck va Wondre, which also lists many recipes on dyeing, laundry cleansers and gardening. This book was a resource (no copyright back then) for a number of translations, including into English as part of A Profitable Book, 1605.

The italic recipe is in Middle Dutch, the second my translation into modern English. For the Dutch words not in my modern Dutch vocabulary I used the Old and Middle Dutch translator at


MEASUREMENTS used:
Stoop; liquid measurement, also used for jar, pitcher
Ame, aam; liquid measurement (four ankers), found as a measurement for beer, oil, wine and life honey.
pot; likely also used as measurement, as in the middle English pottle.


Om diversche winen te maken. Capit. LXVIII.
Hoemē den wÿn houdē sal zonder bedervē. En̅oft hy ghebrec hadde / hoemen hē helpen sal. En̅ooc van wÿn teghen veel siecten. (Eerst sal men hier seggen vā die snidinghe der druyven / alsmen daer wÿn af maken wilt. Men sal die druyvē snidē / als die mane is in Cācro in Leone / in Libra / in Scorpio / oft in Aquario. Dat is / als die mane int breken / en als si onder die aerde is.

To make diverse wines. Capit. LXVIII.
How to keep wine from spoiling. And if it is lacking / how to help it. Also about wine against many illnesses. (First shall be talked about the cutting of the grapes / if one wants to make wine with it. One cuts the grapes / when the moon is in Cacro in Leone / in Libra / in Scorpia / or in Aquario. That is / if the moon rises / and the sun is under the earth.


Om te mercken oft die druyven rÿp ghenoech zÿn om af te sniden. Dat LXIX capittel.
Dit en sal mē niet alleē weten aen dē smake / mer int gesichte / en̅aendē smakē te samē. Aen den smake in deser manierē / oft si soet zÿn. Int ghesichte / alsmēse ontwee doet / dat de steenkēs lichtelÿc daer uit vallē / dier binnen liggen: wat dit is die beste maniere daermë dat bi bekennë mach: wed' si wit zÿ oft blau / this alleleēs. Ooc besiet het natte dat uitē besien coēt / oftet clampt ghelÿc lÿm so suldy sekerlyc wetē / dat hi rÿp ghenoech is om sniden.
Diegene die dē wÿn persen willen / sullen suyver zÿn van handen / so dat die wel en̅reynlÿc gewasschen sullen zÿn / en̅haer beenen en̅voetē reyn. En̅sie sullē net eten pareye / loock / ayuyn oft dierghelycke.
Als die druyven vergadert zÿn en̅gesneden / so sal men se lichtelÿc uit perssen / wāt daer wort dē wy̅sterc af. En̅als die druyven langhe staen sonder perssen daer wort den wÿn slap ende cranck af.
Die vaten daer mē den wÿn in doen sal / sal mē seer reyn houdē / wel gepurgeert / en̅bereet maken. Men sal se naerstelÿc suyveren en̅wasschē met sout watere / so dat si van outheyden niet en stincken. Dan salmense droogē en̅verluchten / en̅ stouen met wieroock die wit is.
Als men twifelt aen die vaten van eenigen stanck / so salmense peckē. Want als die vatē gepect zÿn / so wert hē alle vreemde stanc benomē overmidts dat peck.

To find out if grapes are ripe enough to be cut. That LXIX capittel.
One would not only know this from the taste / more from looking / and the taste together. From the taste in this manner / if they’re sweet. From looking / if taken apart / that the stones fall out lightly / those that are inside: this is the best way to find out: whether it is white or blue / the same for both. Also look at the fluid that comes out / if it sticks like glue so you would know for sure / that it is ripe enough to cut.
Those who want to press the wine / should have clean hands / which are well and cleanly washed / and her legs and feet clean. And you should not eat leek / garlic / onions or similar.
When the grapes are gathered and cut / so shall they be lightly pressed out / the wine will be strong. And if the grapes stand long without being pressed it makes the wine weak and unhealthy.
The barrels to put the wine in / shall be kept real clean / well purged / and prepared. One shall clean them outstandingly with salt water / so it won’t stink from leftovers. Then shall one dry them to the air / and steam with incense that is white. 
If one doubts the smell of the barrels / so one should pitch [tar] them. Because if the barrels are pitched / so all the strange smells are overtaken by the pitch.

Comment: Pareye, pareie, prei, or leek


Als die most heeft staē sieden / en̅op ghegaen is / en̅dan wed' beghint te sittē / mer nochtās noch werme is / so suldy daer op noch anderē most gietē / also hi uiter persse coemt / sond' daer yet in te doen: dan sal hi wed'beginnē te siedē / so hi eerst dede: Als u dā dunct dat hi werd'sittē wilt / so giet daer noch wed' anderen most op / ind'selve manieren also voors, staet. Dit suldy vier oft vyfwerf doē: wāt hoe ghyt meer doet / hoet beter is. Ghi moet u ooc wachten dat die vaten niet so vol en zÿn / dat se overvlieten oft overloopen datse storten / want het waer quaet.
(Yst regēachtich weder alsmen dē wÿn snÿt / so is dā in dē most gemeynlÿc veel waters. Om dā det water te sceyden uitē most of wÿn / die daer bi v'cranct soude zÿ / so suldy so haest als dē wÿn gesodē is / dēselven wÿn vervatē en̅in and'schoon vatē doen / wāt het tgene dat waterachtich oft lÿmachtich is / sal int ond'ste van dē vatē blivē / ō d'swaerheyt wil. Hierbi v'staetmē merckelÿc dat dē wy̅beste is intmiddē des vats / en̅alle olye bovē int vat. En̅dit concordeert met tgene dat Psidorius seyt.

When the must has been seething [bubbling, or fermenting] / and has gone up / and then went down again / but is still warm / so one should pour on top another must / as it comes from the press / without adding it yet: then it shall seeth again / as it did before: If you would like it to go down again / then pour thereon another must / in the same way as is mentioned before. This you should do four or five times: the more you do it / the better it is. You also have to wait that the barrels are not so full / that they overflow and dump / because that is bad.
If it is rainy weather if the wine is cut / so it has in the must a bad amount of water. To separate the water from the wine must / which also could be unhealthy / so you should as soon as the wine is sodden [done fermenting] / decant this wine and put is in clean barrels / because that which makes it watery or sticky [slimy] / will stay in the bottom of the barrel / because it is heavier. This really means the best wine is in the middle of the barrel / and all the oil at the top of the barrel. And this concurs with what Psidorius has said.


Als ghi goedē costeliken wÿn houdē wilt / so suldy uwē wyn v'vaten / en̅drinckē eerst die bovē uite is en̅die onder int vat is / en̅die int middel des vats is / suldy leggē op een vat dat ghi houdē wilt / wāt dat dē bestē wÿn is om te houdē. En̅bi die maniere machmē tappen drierhāde wÿn uit eē vat / te wetē van bovē / int middel / en̅vā onder. Mer dit liecht in honich. Ooc zÿn daer veel lieden die hē des v'staen / en̅bedriegen andere hier mede int proeven: wāt si wetēt te stekē / daert den bitterē smake net en heeft / op dat mē zy̅bitterheyt niet voelē en soude. Hier om sal men hier vinden / hoe en̅in wat manierē / dat men desen wÿn soude moghen proeven / en̅leeren kennen.

Als ghi eenigen wÿn proeven wilt / ghi sult hē proevē smorgens nuchteren / en̅ drie oft vier wervē nemē eenen montvolle broots / en̅maken daer eē soppe op. Dan ghevoelen si den scherpen smake / yst dat si eenigē hebbē / en̅crighen tgheheele verstant van dyen wÿn.

If you want to keep the good precious wine / so you should barrel your wine / and drink first off the top and then from the bottom of the barrel / and that which is in the middle of the barrel / should be put into a barrel that you’ll keep / because that is the best wine to keep. And the manner to tap three layered wine from a barrel / to know from top / the middle / and the bottom. With this lay in honey. Also there are many men who understand this / and fool others with this during tasting: what they know to cut in / since it barely has the bitter taste / so they won’t feel the bitterness. Because of that one shall find here / in how and what way / one shall taste these wines / and learn about them.
If you would like to taste a couple wines / you should taste sober in the morning / and each three or four alternately take a mouthful of bread / and make it all wet. Then you can feel the sharp taste / if it has any / and receive knowledge of your wine.


Om den most soete te maken. Capit. LXX.
Wildy risenden most soet makē / neemt een pōt zeems /wel ghesoden en̅gescuimt / dan v'coelet / en̅neemt een pōt suyckers / en̅een once recolissen wel ghepulverizeert: dit doet int vat mettē moste / dan roeret te samen wel om / en̅latet also ligghen / want so yst goet.

To make must sweet. Capit. LXX

Would you make rising must sweet / take a jar of life honey / well cooked and scummed / then cool it / and take a pot sugar / and an ounce recolissen [?] well pulverized: put this in a barrel with must / then stir well together / and let it lay / because so it’s good.

Comment: Zeems, zeem, ongepijnde honing; plausibly life honey.


Om crancken wÿn sterck te maken / te weten van cleynen wine – Dat LXXI capittel.
Wildy van cleynen cranckē wÿn / goeden sterckē wÿn maken / te weten van lovenscen oft dier gelÿc. Soe haest als desen wÿn geperst is / en̅men hē in dē vatē doē wil / so doet daer in dese navolghende cruyden / en̅laetse daer in blivē. Te wetē alssen een dragma vā eenen ponde / goede nyeu gherste een pōt / die wortelē vā gariofilaet IV oncē / spica nardi een half pōt. Dit sal mē al te samē in een sacxken indē wÿn leggen / maer eerst so bint aen dit sacxken eenen steen / op dattet op den gront bliven mach.

To make unhealthy wine strong / to know of small wine – That LXXI capittel.
Would you from small unhealthy wine / make good strong wine / to know of lovenscen or similar. So do when this wine is pressed / and one wants to put it in the barrels  / add the following herbs / and leave them in. To know a dragma from a pound / good new barley one pot / the roots of garofali IV ounce / spikenard a half pot. This should be added together in a sack and put into the wine / but first tie onto the sack a stone / so that it will stay on the ground.

comment: lovenscen; Leuvens, name of a city, only found with coins, measurements and weights


Item dye op een ame wÿns dede eenē stoop gebrāden wyn / dien wÿn soude so sterc wordē / ia so goet als hi ymmer wesen mach / En̅hy en sal nēmermeer corrumperen noch verrotten / en̅sal altÿt goet en sterck zÿn.

Item do in an ame wine one stoop of roasted wine / that wine will become so strong / it will be as good as it will ever be / And it shall never go corrupt or go bad / and shall always be good and strong.


Om vā witten wyn roodē wyn te makē. Cap. LXXII.
Neemt vier stoopē zeems / wel ghesodē en̅wel ghesuivert en̅vercoelt. Daer doet in eē half pōt moerbesien / en̅mengt die mette zeem / Dan doet dit al tesamen in dat vat / en̅roeret wel. Also latet dan wel liggen rustē acht dagen / en̅dien wÿn sal wel schoon en̅root worden.

To make from white wine red wine. Cap. LXXII.
Take four stoope life honey / well boiled and scummed and cooled down. Add a half pot of mulberries / and mingle with the honey / Then do this together in the barrel / and stir well. Thus let this lay to rest eight days / and the wine shall become pretty and red.


Om wÿn te helpē die beghint te dorren - Capt. LXXIII.
Als den wÿn begint te dorrē / neemt zaet van pareye en̅worpet indē wÿn / en̅sinen goedē smaec sal weder comen / en̅dieselve natuere die hi te voren hadde.

To help wine which begins to turn – Capt LXXIII.
If the wine begins to turn / take seed of leeks and throw into the wine / and its good taste shall come again / and the same nature which it had before.


Om wÿn vā ritsoelen te makē. Cap. LXXIV.
Neemt roode garlgoengie een ame / en̅pilgette een half ame dese winen suldy beyde te gader in een vat doē. Dan neemt een pont caneels / naghelen / spica nardi / elcx even vele en̅vier pōt suyckers / dit suldy al wel pulveriseeren / en̅doent in een sacxken / en̅hanghent in dat vat: dā sal dien wÿn alsoe goet worden / dat den stoop wel weert zÿn sal sesthien groot vlaems / oft meer.

To make wine with ritsoelen [?]. Cap. LXXIV.
Take one ame of red garlgoengie / enpilgette a half ame these wines should be put together in a barrel.  Then take a pound of cinnamon / cloves / spikenard / of each the same and four pot of sugar / this should you powder well / and put into a sack / and hang that in the barrel: thus shall the wine become good / that the stoop shall be worth sixteen great vlaems [Flemish] / or more.

Comment: gargoengie and enpilgette are types of wine, but no idea what kind of wine it refers to.


Om te maken geroffleyt -Capit. LXXV.
Soe neemt een pont gariofel naghelen / lanc peper een once / reyn twee oncen / en̅maect daer af eē pulvere. Dit doet in eē sacxken / en̅hanghet int vat / en̅stoppēt wel vast toe / en̅hi sal alsoe goet worden.

To make with cloves – Capit. LXXV.
So take a pound of cloves / long pepper one ounce / grain [of paradice] two ounces / and make therewith a powder. This put into a sack / and hang it in the barrel / and close it well / and it shall thus become good.

Comment: gariofel naghelen, geroffelnagelen are cloves 


Om wÿn sagitta te maken - Capit. LXXVI.
Ghi sult opt Sint Jan baptistē avōt / nemē drie cruys wortelē / die droocht in de sonne / dā houtse tot dat die nieuwe wÿn coēt. Dan neēt om eē ame wÿns te makē III pōt salien / wel ghepulverizeert / die doet int vat mettē wÿn / en̅latet so liggē tot sinte Martens avont toe / so hebdy goeden sagitta.

To make wine sagitta– Capit. LXXVI.
You should on Saint Jan Baptiste evening / take three cruys [cross, but reads like measurement] roots / which are dried in the sun / and are kept until the new wine comes. Then to make one ame of wine take III pot sage / well powdered / do that into the barrel with wine / and let it sit until Saint Martens’ Eve comes / so you have good sagitta.

Comment: sagitta could be from Sagittarius, sagitta constellation, sagitta literally means archer
Salien, salie, is Salvia officinalis, or sage


Om te maken goeden wyn garnaet - Capit. LXXVII.
Ghi sult nemē serpentÿn cruyt drie pont / tot eē vat frāschen wÿn vā ses ame: wit
suycker vier pōt / een once soffrāes / een once greyns. Mer dit voors. cruyt moet
mē stampen / en̅die soffraē en̅doet wat harst daer in. Dan doet daer in van den
voors. franschen wÿn die twee deelen / en het derdendeel wÿn vā grieckē.

To make good wine garnet – Capit. LXXVII.
You should take tarragon three pounds / on a barrel French wine do six ame: white sugar four pot / one ounce saffron / one ounce grains [of paradise]. With this previously mentioned herb should be stamped / and the saffron and add some resin. Then add in the previously mentioned French wine the two parts / and the third part wine of Greece.

Comment: Soffraes, saffraan, or saffron
Slangenkruid (snake’s herb) translates to viper’s bugloss, adder’s tongue and tarragon.
Garnaet, granaat, or garnet; could also translate to garnaal, or shrimp, but unlikely in context.


Om claereyt te makē gelÿcmē te Romen maect / schoō gheverwet. - Capit. LXXVIII.
Neemt wat lignum aloes / en̅laet dat lekē door wat sofferāes in dien wÿn / daer af sal den wÿn claer ende goet worden.

To make claret similar as made in Rome / cleaned. [?] - Capit. LXXVIII.
Take some lignum aloes / and let that leak through some saffron in your wine / therewith shall the wine become clear and good.

comment: lignum aloes, aloeswood or agarwood


REFERENCES

T bouck van wondre, 1513, anonymous; thesis by H.G.Th. Frencken.
Drukkerij H. Timmermans, Roermond 1934

© Translations by Susan Verberg, 2016

Saturday, August 27, 2016

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Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Miscellaneous Middle Dutch Soap recipes.

All three recipes are attributed to medieval Dutch manuscripts, unfortunately none of them are specifically dated. They are likely of a similar time frame as T Bouck va Wondre and Dat Batement van Recepten, which are both from the 16th century.


From the Jonghe Lanfranc:
Hier beghint den Jon Lanfranc, ende hy beghint erst an dat hooft. 
Folio 16va: Ofte nemt dese salue: Nemt zwinen smout ende puluer uan spanschen groen ende seepe: dit minget alte samen ende doeter toe ene lettel leuende calc, dit minget ouer een jn eenen mortier ende dat legt der op. Dese salue vorseit doet alle fistelen, mormale ende alle teerende onghemaken. 

Here begins the Jonghe [young] Lanfranc, and he begins first at the head:
Folio 16va: Or take this salve: Take hogs smout [?] and powder of spanish green and soap: mix this all together and add one spoon living chalk, mix this together in a mortar, and put this on. This salve helps against fistula's, normal and all lingering discomforts.

part of the Instituut voor Nederlandse Lexicologie (editors), Cd-rom Middelnederlands. Sdu Uitgevers/Standaard Uitgeverij, Den Haag/Antwerpen 1998.
For the digital text: http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_lan013rmul01_01/colofon.php
© 2012 dbnl 


Recepten uit [Recipes from] Hs. 8o MS. Med. 3 (Kassel) (no 1-196)
12. Item noch ieghen tselue. Neemt nitrum, dats .i. maniere van zoute, ende asyl ende (fol. 3r) seepe ende olie ende siedet te gadere tote et dicke wert. Ende daermet salft die iocte biden viere. 

12. Item another of the same. Take nitrum [natron, native soda], that's a type of salt, and asyl [?], and (fol.3r) soap and oil and simmer to cook until it becomes thick. And therewith anoints the iocte biden viere [joints that hurt?].


 Recepten uit [Recipes from] Hs. Sloane 345 (Londen) (no 494-1217)
 628. Thoe maken spaense seepe. Recipe weedasche ende leuende calck ende water ende maket daer loghe af. Ende dodet yn enen potte ende byneden eyn cleyne gaat heuet ende stoppet deen pot dichte thoe, ende latet .ij. daghe staen, dan lucket dat gat vanden pot op, ende wat daer eerst wt lopet dat hetet capitellum, dat salmen yn loghen doen opt fuer. (fol. 45v) Ende daer thoe salmen olij ghieten, ende sydent hent dicke wort. Oeck soe wert swart wander syedinghe ende kokinge. Mer vildi wytte sepe maken, doet woer dy olij wytte ongel gemact van capitello, dat hetet sapo gallicus et factum est.

628. To make spanish soap. Recipe weed ash [white ash] and living chalk [naturally found chalk] and water and make lye therewith. And put it in a pot and below it a small one, and stop the pot up, and let it stand .ij. days, then open up the hole of the pot, and what comes out first is called capitellum, that together in the lye goes over the fire (fol. 45v) And therein oil should be poured, and simmered until it becomes thick. This is how it becomes black from the simmering and the cooking. But if you want to make white soap, add to your oil liquid only made of capitello, that is called sapo gallicus et factum est.


Willy L. Braekman (ed.), Medische en technische Middelnederlandse recepten. Een tweede bijdrage tot de geschiedenis van de vakliteratuur in de Nederlanden. Koninklijke Vlaamse Academie voor Taal- en Letterkunde, Gent 1975. (Medical and Technical Middle Dutch recipes. A second addition to the history of trade literature in the Netherlands. Royal Flemish Academy for Language and Literature).
For the digital text: http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_med002medi01_01/colofon.php
© 2004 dbnl / Willy L. Braekman

"take an Egge newe laide" - an effective Renaissance density test

The earliest sample I've found as yet of the egg float density test using a fresh egg is in the 1558 book of The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount Containyng excellent remedies against diuers disease by Girolamo Ruscelli. 

A very exquisyte sope, made of diuers thinges.
TAke Aluminis catini thre vnces, quicke lyme one part stronge lye that will beare an egge swimminge be|twene two waters, thre pottels, a pot of commun oyle: mengle all well together, puttinge to it the white of an Egge well beaten, and a dysshefull of the meale or floure of Amylum, and an vnce of Romayne Vitrioll, 55 or redde leade well beaten into poulder, and mixe it continuallye for the space of three houres, then lette it stande, by the space of a daye, and it will bee righte and perfite. Finallye,  take it oute, and cutte it in pieces: af|ter sette it to drie twoo daies, in the wynde, but not in the sunne. Occupie alwaies of this sope, when you will washe youre head, for it is verie holsome, and maketh faier heare. 



From the same writer comes another mention for a slightly different strength of lye in the The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers excellent authours, and newly translated out of Frenche into Englishe, with a generall table, of all the matters conteined in the saied boke dated 1560.

To make black Sope for clothes, with all the signes and tokens that it giueth and maketh in beiling. [...] and bicause you maie the better knowe the firste, the seconde and the third, take an Egge newe laide, and binde it rounde about with a threede and as the ma|gistrale lie commeth out, put the Egge into it, and whiles the egge remaineth aboue, put it al into a ves|sell, for it is the first whiche you ought to make muche of. And whan the egge sinketh in the lie [suspended], put that se|cond by it selfe: and if you can gette of the first fourty pounde, you shall get of the seconde thirtie, and of the thirde twentie [touching the bottom], and of the fourth asmuch as you will: [pretty much the density of plain water] [...]


The cookbook The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell Where is to be found most apt and readiest wayes to distill many wholsome and sweet waters. In which likewise is shewed the best maner in preseruing of diuers sorts of fruits, & making of sirrops. With diuers conceits in cookerie with the booke of caruing by Thomas Dawson (1597) also mentions using this technique but now to test for a saturated salt solution. A saturated salt solution is similar in density as lye of the strength for soap making, or a sugar solution suitable for wine fermentation.

To keepe lard in season.
CUt your lard in faire peeces, and salt it well with white salte, euery péece with your hand, and lay it in a close vessel then take faire running water, and much white salt in it, to make it brine, the~ boile it vntill it beare an Egge, then put it into your Lard and keepe it close.



The cookbook and brewing manual The Closet of Sir Kenelme Digbie Opened (1669) also mentions using an egg as a density test, in this case to test the amount of sugar in solution.


White Metheglin of my Lady Hungerford: which is exceedingly praised.
Take your Honey, and mix it with fair water, until the Honey be quite dissolved. If it will bear an Egge to be above the liquor, the breadth of a groat, it is strong enough; if not, put more Honey to it, till it be so strong; Then boil it, till it be clearly and well skimmed; Then put in one good handful of Strawberry-leaves, and half a handful of Violet leaves; and half as much Sorrel: a Douzen tops of Rosemary; four or five tops of Baulme-leaves: a handful of Harts-tongue, and a handful of Liver-worth; a little Thyme, and a little Red-sage; Let it boil about an hour; then put it into a Woodden Vessel, where let it stand, till it be quite cold; Then put it into the Barrel; Then take half an Ounce of Cloves, as much Nutmeg; four or five Races of Ginger; bruise it, and put it into a fine bag, with a stone to make it sink, that it may hang below the middle: Then stop it very close.


And also
Mr. Corsellises Antwerp Meath  
To make good Meath, good white and thick Marsilian or Provence-honey is best; and of that, to four Holland Pints (the Holland Pint is very little bigger then the English Wine-pint:) of Water, you must put two pound of Honey; The Honey must be stirred in Water, till it be all melted; If it be stirred about in warm water, it will melt so much the sooner.
When all is dissolved, it must be so strong that an Egge may swim in it with the end upwards. And if it be too sweet or too strong, because there is too much Honey; then you must put more water to it; yet so, that, as above, an Hens Egge may swim with the point upwards: And then that newly added water must be likewise well stirred about, so that it may be mingled all alike. If the Eggs sink (which is a token that there is not honey enough) then you must put more Honey to it, and stir about, till it be all dissolved, and the Eggs swim, as abovesaid. This being done, it must be hanged over the fire, and as it beginneth to seeth, the scum, that doth arise upon it, both before and after, must be clean skimed off. When it is first set upon the fire, you must measure it first with a stick, how deep the Kettel is, or how much Liquor there be in it; and then it must boil so long, till one third part of it be boiled away. When it is thus boiled, it must be poured out into a Cooler, or open vessel, before it be tunned in the Barrel; but the Bung-hole must be left open, that it may have vent. A vessel, which hath served for Sack is best.


As by this time the method is in general use, I am sure there are more recipes in Digbie - you can check for yourself through the Gutenberg eBook library.


A more modern mention, in the Encyclopedia Brittanica of the late 18th or early 19th century. It is out of period for medieval use, but as this is the recipe that first put me on track of this technique to European side of the Atlantic (as it is a well known American Colonial soap making technique) I am happy to include it here:


The technique is even mentioned in the chapter Brine Curing in my modern Stocking Up, How to Preserve the Foods You Grow, Naturally (1973): "There are several methods for testing the strength of the brine. The old way was to add salt to water until there was enough salt in the water to float an egg or a potato. The modern method is to use a salimeter, which will measure the strength of the brine very accurately and allow you to make a brine as strong or as weak as you like".


I'll be on the lookout for more medieval mentions. I might have some earlier mentions in a partially translated Italian cosmetics text... Know of any mentions yourself? Please share!

serue yee foorth the Table mannerlie, that euery man may speake of your curtesie

From The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell Where is to be found most apt and readiest wayes
to distill many wholsome and sweet waters. In which likewise is shewed the best maner in preseruing
of diuers sorts of fruits, & making of sirrops. With diuers conceits in cookerie with the booke of caruing.
By Thomas Dawson, 1597.

How to purifie and prepare Honnye and Sugar for to confite citrons and all other fruites.
TAke euery time ten pound of hony, the white of twelue new laid egges, and take away the froth of them, beate them wel together with a stick, and six glasses of fair fresh water, then put them into the honny, and boyle them in a pot with mo|derate fire the space of a quarter of an ho|wer or lesse, then take them from the fire skimming them well.

Heere followeth the names of Wines.
Red wine, White wine, Claret Wyne, Osey, Caprick, Campolet, Rennish wine, Malmesey, Bastard, Tyre, Rumney, Muscadel, Clary Raspis, Vernage, Cute· piment and Ipocras.

To make Ipocras.
Take a gallon of wine, and an ounce of sinamo~ two ounces of ginger, and a pou~d of sugar, twentie cloues brused, and twe~|ty corns of pepper grosse beaten, and let al those soke one night, and let it run through a bag.

To make Ipocras
Take of chosen sinamon two ounces, of fine ginger, one ounce of graines, halfe an ounce, bruse them all, and steepe them in thrée or foure pints of good odifferous wine with a pound of suger, by the space of foure and twenty houres, than put them into an Ipocras bag of woollen, and so receiue the liquor. The readiest and best way is, to put the spices with the half pound of suger, and the wine into a bottell, or a stone pot stopped close, & after twenty foure houres it will bee readie, than cast a thin linnen cloth, and a peece of a boulter cloth in the mouth, and let it so much runne through as yee will occupye at once, and keepe the vessell close, for it will so well keepe both the sprite, odour, and ver|tue of the wine, and also spices.

For to make Ipocras.
Take ginger, pepper, graines, canell, sinamon, sugar and fornesole, that looke yee haue fine or sixe bags of your Ipocras to run in, and a pearch that your renners may ren on, than must ye haue sixe peuter basins to stand vnder your bags, then look your spice be ready, and your ginger well pared or it be beaten to pouder, than looke your stalkes of sinamon be well coloured and swéete, canell is not so gentle in opera|tion, sinamon, is hotte and dry, graines of paradice be hot and moist, ginger grains, long pepper and suger ben hot and moist sinamon, Canell and redde wine colou|ring.

Nowe knowe yee the proportions of your Ipocras, than beate your pou|ders, eache by them selfe, and put them in bladders and bange your bagges sure that no bagge touch other, but let eache basing touch other, let the first basin bee of a gallon, and each of the other a pottell, that put in your basin a gallon of redde Wine, put thereto your pou|ders, and stirre them well, than put them into the first bagge, and let it ren, than put them in the seconde bagge, than take a peece in your hande and assay if it be stronge of Ginger, and alay it with sinamon, and it be strong of sinamon, alay it with suger, and look ye let it ren through sixe renners, and your Ipocras shall bee the siner, than put your Ipocras into a close vessell and keepe the receit, for it wil serue for sewes, then serue your soue|raigne with wafers and Ipocras.


Also looke your compost bee faire and cleane, and your ale fiue daies olde, or men drinke it, than keepe your house of office cleane, and bee curteous of aunswere to each person, and looke yee giue no person no paldedrinke, for it will breede the scab.

And when yee laye the cloth wipe the boord cleane with a cloth, than lay a cloth (a couch it is called) take your fellowe that one ende, and hold you that other end, than draw the cloth straight, the bought on the vtter edge, take the vtter parte and hange it euen, than take the thirde cloth and lay the bought on the inner edg, and lay estate with the vpper part halfe a foote broad, than couer thy Cubboord and thine ewrie with the towell of Diaper, than take thy Towell about thy necke, and lay the one side of the Towell vppon the left arme, and thereon lay your Soue|raignes napkin, and lay on thine arme se|uen loues of breade with thres or fower trencher loues, with the end of the towell in the left hande, as the manner is, than take thy salt seller in thy left hande, and take the· end of the towell in your right hand to beare in spoones and kniues, than set your salt on the right side, where your Soueraigne shall sit, and on the left side your salt, set your trenchers, then lay your kniues and set your breade one loafe by a|nother, and your spoones and your Nap|kins faire folden beside your breade, then couer your bread and trenchers, spoones, and kniues, and at euery ende of the Table sette a Saltseller, with two Trencher Leaues, and if yee wyll wrappe your Soueraignes Breade stately, yee must square and propor|tion your breade, and see that no Lofe be more then another, and then shall yee make your wrapper mannerly, then take a towel of reines of two yards and a halfe, and take the towell by the  endes double, and lay it on the table, then take the ende of the bought a handfull in your hand, and wrap it hard, then lay the end so wrapped between two towels, vppon that ende so wrapped.

This being doon lay your bread bottome to bottome, sixe or seauen loaues, then see you set your breade mannerlie in good forme, and when your Soueraignes table is thus arayed, couer al other boords with salt, trenchers and cups: also see thine ewry bee arayed with basins and ewers, and water hot and  olde, and see yee haue napkins, cups, spoons, and see your pots for wine and ale be made clean, and to the surnabe make the curtesie with a cloth vn+der a faire double napry, then take the to|wels end next you, and the vtter end of the table, and hold these three ends at once, & folde them at once that a pleit passe not a foote broad, then lay it euen there it should lye. And after meate wash with that, that is at the right ende of the table, yee must guide it out, and the marshal must conuey it and looke to ech cloth the right side bee outward and drawe it straight, then must yee raise the vpper part of the towell, and lay it without any groning and at euerye ende of the towell yee must conuay halfe a yarde that the sewer may take estate re|uerently, and let it be: and when your so|ueraine hath washed, draw the surnape e|uen, then beare the surnap to the midst of the boord, and take it vp before your soue|raigne, and beare it into the ewry againe: and when your soueraigne is set, look your towell bee about your necke, then make your souerain curtesie, then vncouer your breade and lay it by the salt, and lay your napkin, knife, and spoone afore him, than kneele on your knee till the purpain pas eight loues and looke ye set at the endes of the table foure loues at a messe, and see that euerie person haue a napkin and a spoone, and waite well to the sewer howe many dishes be couered, and so many cups couer yee, then serue yee foorth the Table mannerlie, that euery man may speake of your curtesie.

To boyle a carpe in greene broth, with a pudding in his bellie...

 A compilation of sweets and subtlety recipes from The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell Where is to be found most apt and readiest wayes to distill many wholsome and sweet waters. In which likewise is shewed the best maner in preseruing of diuers sorts of fruits, & making of sirrops. With diuers conceits in cookerie with the booke of caruing. By Thomas Dawson, 1597.

To make fine paste.
TAke faire flower and wheate, & the yolkes of egges with sweet Butter, melted, mixing all these together with your hands, til it be brought dowe paste, & then make your coffins whether it be for pyes or tartes, then you may put Saffron and suger if you wil haue it a swéet paste, hauing respect to the true seasoning some vse to put to their paste Béefe or Mutton broth, and some Creame.

To make purses or cremi|taries.
TAke a little Marow, small raisons, & Dates, let the stones be taken away, these being beaten together in a Morter, season it with Ginger, Sinamon and su|ger, then put it in fine paste, & bake them or frie them, so done in the seruing of them cast blaunch pouder vpon them.

For tartes of creame.
TAke a pinte of creame with sixe rawe egges, and boile them together, and stirre it well that it burne not, then let it boile till it be thick, then take it out of the 28 pot, and put to two dishes of Butter mel|ted, and when it is some what colde, then straine it and season it with Suger, then put it into your paste, when your paste is hardned, and when it is enough, the serue it with Suger cast vpon it. If you will haue a Tart of two colours, then take the halfe of it, when it is in Creame, and co|lour the other halfe with saffron or yolks of egges.

A tart of proines.
MAke your Coffine two inches déepe round about, the~ take ten or twelue good apples, pure them and slice them, and put them into the Paste with two di|shes of butter among the apples, then co|uer your tarte close with the Paste, and breake a dishe of butter in peeces, and lay it vpo~ the couer because of burning in the Panne. And when the apples be tender, take it forth and cut of the couer, & beate the apples together till they be softe, and they be dry put the more butter into them and so season them with Sinamon, Gin|ger and Suger, then must you cut your co|uer after the fashion, leauing it vpon your Tarts, serue it with blaunch pouder.

To farse Egges.
TAke eight or ten eggs and boyle them hard, pill of the shelles, and cutte euery eg in the middle then take out the yolkes and make your farsing stuffe as you do for flesh, sauing only you must put butter into it insteede of suet, and that a little so doon fill your Egges where the yolkes were, and then binde them and seeth them a lit|tle, and so serue them to the table.

To Preserue Quinces in sirrop all the yeere.
TAke three pound of quinces being pa|red and cored, two pounde of Suger and three quarts of faire running water, put all these togeather in an earthen pan, and let them boyle with a soft fire, & when they be skimmed, couer them close that no ayre maye come out from them, you must put cloues and Sinamon to it after it is skimmed, of quantitie as you will haue them to taste, if you wil know when they be boyled enough, hang a linnen cloth be|tween the couer and the pan so that a good deale of it may hang in the licour, & when the cloth is very red they be boiled enough let them stand till they be colde, then put them in Galley pots sirroppe, and so wil they keepe a yeere.

To conserue wardens all the yeere in sirrop.
TAke your wardens and put them into a great Earthen pot, and couer them close, set them in an Ouen when you haue set in your white bread, & when you haue drawne your white bread, and your pot, & that they be so colde that you may handle them, then pill the thin skinne from them ouer a pewter dish, that you may saue all the sirroppe that falleth from them: put to them a quarte of the same sirroppe, and a pinte of Rosewhter, and boile them toge|ther with a fewe Cloues and Sinnamon, and when it is reasonable thick and cold, put your wardens and Sirroppe into a Galley pot, and sée alwaies that the Syr|rop bee aboue the Wardens, or any other thing that you conserue.

To conserue cherries, Damesins or wheat plummes all the yeere in the sirrop.
FIrst take faire water, so much as you shall think meete and one pound of su|ger, and put them both into a faire bason, and set the same ouer a soft fire, till the su|ger be melted, then put the reto one pound and an halfe of chirries, or Damsins, and let them boile till they breake, then couer them close til they be colde, then put them in your gally pottes, and so keep them: this wise kéeping proportion in weight of Suger and fruite, you may conserue as much as you list putting therto Sinamon and cloues, as is aforesaid.

To make a paste of Suger, where of a man may make al manner of fruits, and other fine thinges with their forme, as Plates, Dishes, Cuppes and such like thinges, where with you may furnish a Table.
TAke Gumme and dragant asmuch as you wil, and steep it in Rosewater til it be mollified, and for foure ounces of su|ger take of it the bignes of a beane, the iuyce of Lemons, a walnut shet ful, and a little of the white of an eg. But you must first take the gumme, and beat it so much with a postell in a brasen morter, till it be come like water, then put to it the iuyce with the white of an egge, incorporating al these wel together, this don take foure ounces of fine white suger well beaten to powder, and cast it into ye morter by a litle 40 and little, vntil they be turned into ye form of paste, the~ take it out of the said morter, and bray it vpon the powder of suger, as it were meale or flower, vntill it be like soft paste, to the end you may turn it, and fashionit which way you wil. When you haue brought your paste to this fourme spread it abroad vpo~ great or smal leaues as you shall thinke it good, and so shal you form or make what things you wil, as is aforesaid, with such fine knackes as may serue a Table taking heede there stand no hotte thing nigh it. At the ende of the Banket they may eat all, and breake the Platters Dishes, Glasses, Cuppes, and all other things, for this paste is very de|licate and sauerous. If you will make a thing of more finenesse then this: make a Tarte of Almondes stamped with suger and Rose water of like sorte that March|paines be made of, this shall you laye be|tween two pastes of such vessels or fruits or some other things as you thinke good.

To confite walnuts
TAke them greene and small in huske, and make in them foure litle holes, or more, then steepe them in water eleuen daies, make them cleane and boile them as ye Orenges héer after written, but they must séethe foure times as much. Dresse them likewise with Spices, sauing you must put in very fewe Cloues, least they taste bitter. In like sorte you may dresse Goords, cutting them in long péeces, and paring away the inner partes.

To make Mellons and Pompons sweet.
TAke fine Suger and dissolue it in wa|ter, then take séedes ot Mellons and cleaue the~ a litle on the side that sticketh to the Mellon, and put them in the sugred water, adding to them a little rosewater. Leaue the saide séedes so by the space of thrée or foure houres, then take them out, and you shall sée that as soone as the saide séedes be dry, it wil close vp again. Plant it and there will come of it such Mellons, as the like hath not béen séene. If you wil haue them to giue the sauour of Muske: put in the said water a little muske, and fine Sinamon, and thus you may doo the seedes of Pompones, and Cowcumbers.

To confite Orenge peeles which may be doone at all times in the yeere, and cheefly in May, because then the saide peeles be greatest and thickest. 
TAke thicke Orenge péeles, and them cut in foure or fiue péeces, and steepe them in water the space of ten or twelue daies. You may know when they be stée|ped enough, if you holde them vp in the sunne and sée through them, then they be steeped enough, & you cannot sée through them, then let them stéepe vntil you may. Then lay them to drye vpon a table, and put them to dry betwéen two linnen clo|thes, then put them in a Kettell or vessell leaded, and adde to it as much Honny as will halfe couer the saide peeles, more or lesse as you think good, boyle them a little and stirre them alwaies, then take them from the fire, least the Honny should séeth ouermuch. For if it should boyle a little more then it ought to boyle, it would be thick. Let it the~ stand and rest foure daies in the said Honny, stirring and mingling the Orrenge and Honny euery day toge|ther. Because there is not honny enough to couer all the saide Orrenge péeles, you must stir them well and oftentimes, thus doo thrée times, giuing them one bobling at ech time, then let the~ stand thrée dayes then strain them from the honny, and af|ter you haue let them boile a small space, take them from the fier, and bestow them in vessels, put ting to them Ginger, cloues and Sinamon, mixe all together, and the rest of the Sirrope will serue to dresse o|thers withall.

How to purifie and prepare Honnye and Sugar for to confite citrons and all other fruites.
TAke euery time ten pound of hony, the white of twelue new laid egges, and take away the froth of them, beate them wel together with a stick, and six glasses of fair fresh water, then put them into the honny, and boyle them in a pot with mo|derate fire the space of a quarter of an ho|wer or lesse, then take them from the fire skimming them well.

To co~nfite Peaches after the Spanish fashion.
TAke great and faire Peaches and pill them clean, cut them in péeces and so lay them vpon a table abroad in the Sun the space of two daies, turning them eue|rye morning and night, & put the~ hot into a Inlep of Sugar wel sodden, and prepa|red as is aforesaid, and after you haue ta|ken them out set them againe in the Sun turning them often vntill they bee well dried, this doon, put them againe into the Inlep, then set them in the sun vntill they haue gotten a faire bark or crust, and the~ you may keepe them in boxes for winter.

To co~nfite Peaches after the Spanish fashion.
TAke great and faire Peaches and pill them clean, cut them in péeces and so lay them vpon a table abroad in the Sun the space of two daies, turning them eue|rye morning and night, & put the~ hot into a Inlep of Sugar wel sodden, and prepa|red as is aforesaid, and after you haue ta|ken them out set them againe in the Sun turning them often vntill they bee well dried, this doon, put them againe into the Inlep, then set them in the sun vntill they haue gotten a faire bark or crust, and the~ you may keepe them in boxes for winter.

a goodlye secret for to condite or confite Orenges, citrons, and all other fruites in sirrop.
TAke Cytrons and cut them in peeces, taking out of them the iuice or sub|stance, then boyle them in freshe water halfe an hower vntill they be tender, and when you take them out, cast the~ in colde water, leaue them there a good while, the~ set them on the fire againe in other freshe water, doo but heat it a little with a smal fire, for it must nrt seeth, but let it simper a litle, continue thus eight daies together heating the~ euery day in hot water: some heat ye water but one day, to the end that the citrons be not too tender, but change the freshe water at night to take out the bitternesse of the pilles, the which being taken away, you must take suger or Ho|ny clarified, wherein you must the citrons put, hauing first wel dried them from the water, & in wi~ter you must kéep the~ from the frost, & in Sommer you shal leaue the~ there all night, and a daye and a night in Honie, then boile the Honie or Sugar by it selfe without the orenges or Citrons by the space of halfe an hower or lesse with a little fire, and beeing colde set it again to the fire with the Citrons, continuing so two morninges: if you wil put Honnie in water and not suger, you must clarifie it two times, and straine it through a stray|ner: hauing thus warmed and clarified it you shall straine and sette it againe to the fire, with Citrons onely, making them to boyle with a soft fire the space of a quar|ter of an houre, the~ take it from the fire & let it rest at euery time you do it, a day & a night: the next morning you shall boyle it again together the space of half an how+er, and doo so two morninges, to the end that the Honie or suger may be well in|corporated with the Citrons. All the cun|ning consisteth in the boyling of this sir|rope together with the Citrons, and also the Sirrope by it selfe, and heerein heede must be taken that it take not ye smoke, so that it sauour not of the fire: In this ma|ner may be drest the Peaches, or Lem|mons Orrenges, Apples, greene Wal|nuts, and other liste being boiled more or lesse, according to the nature of the fruits.

To make a condonack.
TAke Quinces and pare the~, take out the cores, and séeth them in fair water vntil they break, the~ strain them through a fine strainer, and for eight pound of the said strained quinces, you must put in 3. pound of Suger, and mingle it together in a vessel, and boile them en the fire al|waies stirring it vntil it be sodden which you may perceiue, for that it will no lon|ger cleaue to the vessel, but you may sta~p muske in powder, you may also ad spice to it, as Ginger, Sinamon, Cloues, and Nutmegges, as much as you think méet, boyling the muske with a litle Uineger, then with a broad slice of wood spread of this confection vpon a table, which must be first strewed with Suger, and there make what proportion you wil, and set it in the sunne vntil it be drye, and when it hath stood a while turn it vpsidown, ma|king alwaies a bed of Suger, both vnder and aboue, and turne them still, and drye them in the sunne vntill they haue got|ten a crust. In like maner you may dresse Peares, Peaches, Damsins,
and other fruites.

To make confections of Mellons or Pompones.
TAke what quantity of Mellons you think best, and take them before they be ripe, but let the~ be good, and make as many cuts in the~ as they be marked with quarters on euery side, and hauing mun|dified them and taken out the cores and curnels, and péeled the vtter rinde, steepe them in good Uineger, and leauing them so the space of ten daies, & when you haue taken them out, take other vineger and 48 stéepe them a new againe other ten daies remouing and stirring them euery daye, then when time shalbetake them out, and put them in a course linnen cloth, drying and wiping them, and set the~ in the ayre, the space of a day and a night, then boyle them in Hony, and by the space of x. daies giue them euery day a little boyling, lea|uing them alwaies in the Hony, and they must boile at euery boiling but one walm then take the peeces and put the~ in a pot with pouder of cloues, Ginger
and Nut|megges, and peeces of Sinnamon, thus doone, make one bed of the peeces of Mel|lons, and another of the spices, and then powre white Honnie vpon all in the said pots or vessels.

To make Quinces in Sirrope.
TAke thirty Quinces to the quantity of this sirrop, take a pottel of water and put it in a pan, and then take the whites of six egges and beat them with an other pottle of water, & then put it altogether, and put therto twelue or fouretéen pound of Suger, as you shal see cause, and seeth it and skim it very cleane, and then put to it two ounces of cloues and bruse the~ a very little, and let them seeth vntill the some do rise very black, and then skimme of the cloues again & wash them in faire water and dry them and put them in a|gain and your quinces also. Put to them half a pint of rosewater, and then put the Sirrope in a faire earthen pot or panne, and lay a shéet foure times double vpon them to kéep in ye heat, and so let it stand a day or two, and then put them & the sirop in a vessell that was neuer occupied, & co|uer them close, but in the beginning pare your quinces and core them, & séeth them in faire water, vntill they be tender, and then take them vp and lay them that the water may runne from them cleane, and when they be cold, then put the~ into your sirrope as it is aboue said.

To make conserue of Barberies.
TAke your Barberies and picke them cleane, and set the~ ouer a soft fire, and put to them Rosewater as much as you thinke good, then when you thinke it be sodde enough, straine that, and then séeth it againe, and to euery pound of Barbe|ries, one pound of suger, and meat your conserue.

To boile Citrons.
WHe~ your Citrons be boiled, pared and sliced, séeth them with water and wine, and put to them butter, small Raysons, and Barberies, suger, sinamon and Ginger, and let them seeth till your citrons be tender.

To bake Lampernes.
FIrst make your coffin long waies, and season your Lampernes with Pepper, Cloues, and Mace, and put them in the Pye, and put thereto a good handfull of small Raysons, two or thrée onions sliced a good peece of Butter, a litle suger, and a few Barberies, & whe~ it is enough put in a little Vergious.

To make fried toste of Spinage.
TAke Spinnage and seeth it in water and salt, and when it is tender, wring out the water betwéene two Trenchers, then chop it smal and set it on a Chafing|dish of coles, and put thereto butter, small Raisons, Sinamon, Ginger, and Suger, and a little of the iuyce of an Orenge and two yolks of rawe Egges, and let it boile till it be somewhat thicke, then toste your toste, soake them in a little Butter, and Suger, and spread thinne your spinnage vpon them, and set them on a dish before the fire a litle while, & so serue them with a litle suger vpon them.

To bake a Citron pie.
TAke your citron, pare it and slice it in peeces, and boile it with grose pepper and Ginger, and so lay it in your Paste with butter, and when it is almost baked put thereto Uineger, Butter, and Suger, and let it stande in the Ouen a while and soke.

An other way to bake Citrons.
WHen your Citrons be pared & slyced laye it in your Paste with small Raysons, and season them with Pepper, ginger, and fine suger.

To bake Aloes.
TAke a Legge of mutton or Ueale, and cut it in thinne slices: take parseley, Time, Margerom, Sauerie, & chop them small, with ii. or iii. yolkes of hard Egges and put there to a good many Currants, then put these hearbs in the slices, with a péece of Butter in each of them and wrap them together and lay them close in your Paste, season them with Cloues, Mace, Sinamon, Suger, and a lyttle whole pepper, Currans and Barberies cast v|pon them and put a dish of butter to them & whe~ they be almost baked put in a lit|tle Vergious.

To make conserues of Roses, and of any other flowers.
TAke your Roses before they be fullye sprung out, and chop off the white of them, and let the Roses be dried one daye or two before they be stamped, and to one vnce of these flowers take one vnce and a halfe of fine beaten Suger, and let your roses be beate~ as you can, and after beat your roses and Suger together againe, then put the Conserue into a faire glasse: And likewise make all Conserue of Flo|wers.

To make conserue of cherries, and other fruites.
TAke halfe a pound of Cherries, & boile them dry in their own licour, and the~ straine them through a Hearne rale, and when you haue strained them, put in two pounde of fine beaten Suger, and boyle them together a prety while, and then put your Conserue in a pot.

To boyle a carpe in greene broth, with a pudding in his bellie.
TAke the spawn of a carpe, and boile and crumble it as fine as you can, the~ take grated bread smal raisons dates minced, cinamon, suger, cloues, and Mace, and Pepper, and a little salte min|gled altogeather, and take a good handful of sage, and boile it tender, and straine it with thrée or foure yolkes of Egges, and one white, and put to the spawne, with a little creame and Rosewater, then take the carpe and put the pudding in the bel|lie, and seeth him in water and salt, and whe~ he is almost boyled, take some of the spawne and of the best of the broth, and put it into a little pot with a little white wine, and a good péece of butter, and thrée or foure Onyons, whole Mace, whole Pepper, and small Raisons, and thrée or sower Dates, and when it is a good deale sodden, put in a good deale of séeded spin|nage, & strain it with thrée or fower yolks of Egges, and the Onyons that you put into the Broth with a little Vergious, and put it to your Broth: and if it be too sharpe put in a little Suger, and so laye your Carpe vpon soppes, and poure the Broth vpon it.

To make an Almond Custard.
TAke a good sort of almonds blanched, and stampe them with Water, and straine them with water and a litle rose|water, and twelue Egges, then season it with a little synamon, suger, and a good deale of Ginger, then set it vpon a pot of seething water, & when it is enough stick Dates in it.

To make a blanch marger on the fish day.
TAke whites of egges and creme, and boile them on a chafingdish on coles, till they Curd, then will their whay goe from them, then put away the whay, then put to the Curd a little Rosewater, then straine it and season it with suger.

To make a Pudding in a pot.
TAke a peece of a Legge of Mutton or Veale and perboyle it well, then shred it very fine, with as much suet as there is mutton, and season it with a little pep|perand salte. Cloues and Mace, with a good deale of synamon and Ginger, then put it in a little pot, and put thereto a good quantity of Currans and Prunes, and two or thrée Dates cut the long wayes, and let it séethe softly with a little vergi|ous vpon sops, and so serue it with suger.

To make conserue of Mellons, or Pompons.
TAke what quantity of Mellons you thinke best, and take the~ before they be ripe, but let them be good, and make as many cuts in the~ as they be marked with quarters on euery side, & hauing mundi|fied the~ and taken out the cores and cur|nelles, and péeled the vtter rinde, stéepe them in good Uineger, and leauing them so the space of ten daies, & when you haue taken them out, take other vineger and stéep them ten daies more, remouing and stirring them euery day, then when time shalbe take the~ and put them in a course linnen cloth, drying & wiping them, then set them in the ayre the space of one daye and a night, then boile them in hony, and by the space of ten daies giue them euery day a little boyling, leauing the~ alwaies in the Hony, and they must boile at euery boiling but one walm, then take the pee|ces and put them in a pot, with pouder of Cloues, Ginger and Nutmegges, and a peece of synamon, this doone, make one bed of the peeces of Mellons, and another of the spice, and then poure white honye vpon all in the said pots or vessels.

To make sirrope of Violets.
FIrst gather a great quantity of violet flowers, and pick the~ cleane from the stalkes and set the~ on the fire, and put to them so much Rosewater as you thinke good, then let them boile altogether vntill the colour be forth of them the~ take them of the fire and strain them through a fine cloth, then put so much suger to them as you thinke good, then set it againe to the fire vntil it be somewhat thick, and put it into a violl glasse.

To preserue orrenges.
TAke your Pills and water them two nights & one day, and drie them clean againe and boile them with a soft fire the space of one hower, then take them out to coole, and make your sirroppe halfe with Rosewater and half with that liconr, and put double Suger to your Orenges, and when your Sirroppe is halfe sodden, then let your orrenges seeth one quarter of an hower more, then take out your orrenges and let the sirroppe séeth vntil it rope, and when all is colde, then put your Orenges into the Sirrop: The white of an Egge and suger beaten togeather will make it to candie.

To make drie Marmelet of Peches.
TAke your Peaches and pare the~, and cut them from the stones, and mince them very sinely, and stéepe them in rose|water, then straine them with rosewater through a course cloth or Strainer into your Pan that you will séethe it in, you must haue to euery pound of peches halfe a pound of suger finely beaten, and put it into your pan yt you do boile it in; you must reserue out a good qua~tity to mould your cakes or prints withall, of that Su|ger, then set your pan on the fire, and stir it fil it be thick or striffe that your stick wil stand vpright in it of it self, the~ take it vp and lay it in a platter or charger in prety lumps as big as you wil haue ye mould or printes, and when it is colde print it on a faire boord with suger, and print the~ on a mould or what knot or fashion you will, & bake in an earthen pot or pan vpon ye em|bers or in a feate couer, and kéep the~ con|tinually by the fire to kéep them dry.

To make the same of Quinces, or any other thing.
TAke the Quinces and quarter them, and cut out the ccares and pare them cleane, and séeth them in faire water till they be very tender, then take them with rosewater, and straine them, and do as is aforesaid in euery thing.

To preserue Orrenges, Lemmons, and Pomesitrons.
FIrst shaue your Orrenges finely, & put them into water two dayes and two nights, changing your water thrée times a day, then perboyle them in thrée seueral waters, then take so much water as you think conuenient for the quantity of your Orrenges, then put in for euery pound of Orrenges one pound and a halfe of suger into the water, and put in two whites of egges and beat them altogether, then set them on the fire in a brasse vessel, & when they boyle skimme them very clean, and clense them through a Jelly bagge, then set it on the fire and put in the Orrenges. Vse walnuts in like maner, and vse lem|mons and Pomecitrons in like sorte, but they must lye in water but one night.

To preserue Quinces al the yere through whole and soft.
TAke as is aforesaide one pound of wa|ter, and three pound of Suger, & break it into very smal péeces, and in all things as you did before, then take twelue Quin+ces and core them very clean, & pare them and washe them, and put into you sirrup, when the skim is taken off let them seeth very soft vntill they be tender, then take them vp very softly for breaking, and lay them in a faire thing one by another, the~ straine your firrupe, and set it on the fire again, then put in your Quinces & haue a quick fire, let them seeth apace and turne them with your sticke, and when they be almost ready put in some Rosewater and let them seeth. and when you thinke they be ready take vp some of the sirrope in a spoone, and if it be thick like a zelly whe~ it is colde then take of your Pan, and put your Quinces into pots and your sirrope to the~, and put into your pots litle stickes of Sinamon and a fewe cloues, and when they be colde couer them with paper pric|ked full of small holes.

How to make good Marchpaine.
FIrst take a pou~d of long small almonds and blanch them in cold water, and dry the as posible as you can, then grinde them small, and put no licour to them but as you must néedes, to kéep them from oyling, and that licour that you put in, muste bee rose water, in manner as you shall think good but wet your pestell therin, when ye hau beaten them fine, take halfe a pounde suger and more, and see that it bee beaten small in pouder, it must be fine, then put it to your almonds, and beat them together, when they bee beaten, take your wafers and cut them compusse rounde, and of the bignes you will haue your Marchpane, and then assoone as yee can after the tem|pering of your stuffe, let it bee put in your past, and strike it abroad with a flat sticke as euen as ye can, and pinch the very stuff as it were an edge set vpon, and then put a paper vnder it, and set it vpon a faire boord and lay a latin basin ouer it, the bottome vpward, and then lay burning coales vp|pon· the bottome of the basin: to see how it baketh, if it happen to bren too fast in some place folde Papers as broade as the place is, and lay it vpon that place, and thus with atttending ye shall bake it a lit|tle more then a quarter of an houre, and when it is well baked, put on your golde and biskets, and stickin conficts, and so you shall make a good Marchpaine. Or euer that you bake it· you muste caste on it fine suger and rose water, that wil make it look like Ice.

To make marchpane.
Take halfe a pounde of blanched Al|monds, and of white Sugar a quarter of a pound, of Rose water half an ounce, and of damaske water as much, beat the almo~ds with a little of the same water, and grind them till they be small, set them on a fewe coales of fire, till they wax thicke, then beat them againe with the suger fine: then mix the swéet waters and them together, and so gather the~ and fashion your march|pane: then take Water cakes of the broa|dest making, cut them square, paste them together with a litle liquor, and when you haue made them as broade as will serue your purpose, haue ready made a hoope of a green hasel wand of the thicknes of half an inche on the inner side smooth, and on the outward side round and smooth with|out any knags: lay this hoope vpon your water cakes aforesaid, and then fill your hoop with the geare aboue named, ye thick|nes of the hoope: the same driuen smooth aboue, with the back of a siluer spoone, as yee doe a tart, & cut away all the parts of the cakes, euen close by the outside of the hoope with a sharpe knife, that it may bee round: then hauing white paper vuder|neath it, set it vpon a warme harth or vp|pon an instrument of iron and brasse, made for the same purpose, or into an ouen after the bread is taken out so it be not stopped, it may not bake but onely bee harde and through dried: & ye may while it is moist, stick it full of cumfets of sundry colours in comely order, yee must moist it ouer with rosewater and Suger togeather, make it smooth, and so set it in the ouen or other in|strument, the clearer it is like Lantarne horne, so much the more commended· If it be through dried and kept in a warm and drie aire, a marchpane will last many yeares. It is a comfortable meat for weak folkes, such as haue lost the tast of meates by much and long sicknes: the greatest se|cret that is in making of this cleare, is with a little fine flower of rice, rose water and suger beaten together, and laid thin o|uer the marchpane, ere it go to drying: this will make it shine like Ice, and ladies re|port.


From The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell Where is to be found most apt and readiest wayes
to distill many wholsome and sweet waters. In which likewise is shewed the best maner in preseruing
of diuers sorts of fruits, & making of sirrops. With diuers conceits in cookerie with the booke of caruing.
By Thomas Dawson, 1597 (includes some duplication of recipes).

Monday, August 22, 2016

A Closet for Ladies: Cordial Waters.


Aqua Coelestis.
TAke of Cinamon six ounces, Cloues one dram, Nutmegs one dram and a halfe, of Ginger two drams and a halfe, of Galingale one dram and a halfe, Cubebs two drammes, Calamus-roots one dram, all bruised and kept in paper: then take of Bettony and Sage-flowers, of each a handfull; Marjoram, Penniriall, of each a handfull, bruised likewise: then take of these powders, of Aromaticum Roseum three drams; Diambrae, Diamargariro frigidum, Diamescum dulce, of each a dram and a halfe: you must put all these into a gallon of spirit of wine, and steep them three dayes and three nights, shaking them well euery day, and then distill it in your Limbecks; and when it is distilled, you must hang half an ounce of Yellow Sanders, and twenty graines of Muske and Amber in it.

To make Cinamon water.
TAke one pound of the best Cinamon you can get: bruise it well, and put it into a gallon of the best Sack, and infuse it three daies and three nights, and then distill it as your Aqua Coelestis.

To make Doctor Steeuens water.
TAke of Rose-leaues on dram, Borage, Buglosse, Violets, and Rosemary-flowers, of each a dram and a halfe, Spikenard a dram, Cinamon a ounces, Ginger an ounce, Cloue & Nutmegs, of each half an ounce, Cardamons a dram and a half, Gallingale two drams, Cubebs a dram, Pepper three drams, Anniseeds, Carroway-seeds and Fennell, of each an ounce, Lignum Aloes half a dram, Corall and Pearl in fine powder of each one dram; bruise these, and put them in a pottle of Aqua-vitae, and a quart of Sacke, vsing it in euery respect as your Aqua-Coelestis.

To mak Balme-water.
TAke balme, dry three ounces, Time, Peneriall, of each an ounce, Cinamon foure ounces, a dram of Cardomus, Graines half an ounce, sweet Fennell-seeds an ounce, Nutmegs and Ginger, of each a dram, Galingale one ounce, Calamus and Cyprus, Cubebs and Pepper, of each two drams, of Caper-roots halfe a dram, of Diptamus one dram: bruise these things, and put them to a pottle of sack, and steepe them 24 hoares, and then vse it as the former waters.

Angelica water.
Take Cardus dry a handfull, Angelica roots three ounces, of Myrrh one dram, Nutmegs halfe an ounce, Cinamon, Ginger, of each foure ounces, Saffron one dram, & a halfe, Cardomons, Cubebs, Gallingale and Pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce, Mace two drams, Graines one dramme, Lignum aloes, Spikenard, Iuncus Odoratus, of each a dram; Sage, Borage, Buglosse, Violets and Rosemary flowers, of each half a handfull: bruise these, and steep them in a pottle of Sack twelue hourse, and distill it as the rest.

Rosa-solis.
TAke liquorice eight ounces, Anniseeds, Carroway, of each an ounce, Raisons stoned, Dates, of each 3. ounces, nutmegs, ginger, cinamon, Mace, of each halfe an ounce, Gallingale a quarter of an ounce, Cubebs one dram. Figs two ounces, Sugar foure ounces: bruise these, and distill it with a gallon of Aqua-vitae, as the rst: but when it is distilled, you must colour it with the herbe Kosatfolis, or else Alkanet root.

Wormwood water.
TAke of Wormewood two ounces and a halfe, Sage, Bittony & Rue, of each halfe a handfull, Rosemary tops a handfull, Cinamon 3. ounces, Nutmegs halfe and ounce, Cloues and Mace, of each halfe a dram, Ginger an ounce; Gallingale, Cubebs and Spikenard, of each a dramme and a halfe, of Scordium halfe a handfull: bruise these, and put them into a pottle of Sacke, and a pint of Aqua-vitae, and steepe them foure and twenty houres, and distill them as the rest.

From A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen. Or, the Art of Preserving, Conserving, and Candying. by John Haviland, London, 1627.

Free Resources for Herbal & Apothecary


About Herbals:

A Nievve Herball, Or Historie of Plantes: Wherein is Contayned the Whole Discourse and Perfect Description of All Sortes of Herbes and Plantes : Their Divers & Sundry Kindes ... and that Not Onely of Those Whiche are Here Growyng in this Our Countrie of Englande, But of All Others Also of Forrayne Realmes Commonly Used in Physicke ; First Set Foorth in the Doutche Or Almaigne Tongue, by Garrat D'Ewes (Gerard Dewes), dwelling in Pawles Churchyarde at the signe of the Swanne, 1578 (779 pages) - has a great chapter on hops.

Free download at:
https://books.google.com/books?id=nrspQgAACAAJ&dq=A_Nievve_Herball_Or_Historie_of_Plantes&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZ4KO978vOAhVLVWMKHVKMD7gQ6AEILDAC


The Herball or Generall Historie of Plantes (1597) John Gerarde, London
http://caliban.mpipz.mpg.de/gerarde/index.html (high resolution images)
Free download of the pdf (medium resolution images):
http://caliban.mpipz.mpg.de/gerarde/gerarde_herball.pdf



About medical concoctions:

Culpeper's English Physician and complete Herbal, a good resource to check herbal ingredients for middle English recipes, in mostly modern English. The book is from the 18something, but the info is reprinted from an earlier manuscript. Nicolas Culpeper lived and died from 1616 to 1654.

this is the free eBook, there are also modern reprints which are not free. It says volume one, not sure if there is a (free) volume two.
https://books.google.com/books?id=0QpbAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=culpepers+english+physician&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq0bv3mvjMAhVMzmMKHWoDDtUQ6AEIJTAB#v=onepage&q=culpepers%20english%20physician&f=false


Natural Magick (Magiae naturalis) by John Baptista Porta (Giambattista della Porta), 1535-1615. The Latin version was published in 1558, the English translation a hunderd years later in 1658.
http://www.mindserpent.com/American_History/books/Porta/jportap1.html
Also listed (sometimes incomplety):
http://www.faculty.umb.edu/gary_zabel/Courses/Phil%20281b/Philosophy%20of%20Magic/Natural_Magic/jportat5.html


About Distillation and Cordials:

The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened by Kenelm Digby, 1669.
Free download at:
http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16441



Countrey Contentments, or the English Huswife: containing the Inward and Outward Vertues which ought to be in a Compleate Woman by Gervase Markham, 1623. This is a slightly past period book with recipes for (medicinal) cordials, and more on brewing and cooking.
only available online in a viewing mode, not as a pdf:
http://digital.library.lse.ac.uk/objects/lse:heh898zor


The Art of Distillation. Or, A Treatise of the Choicest Spagyrical Preparations Performed by Way o£ Distillation, Being Partly Taken Out of the Most Select Chemical Authors of the Diverse I,anguages and Partly Out of the Author's Manual Experience together with, The Description of the Chiefest Furnaces and Vessels Used by Ancient and Modern Chemists also A Discourse on Diverse Spagyrical Experiments and Curiosities, and of the Anatomy of Gold and Silver, with The Chiefest Preparations and Curiosities Thereof, and Virtues of Them All. All Which Are Contained In Six Books Composed By John French, Dr. of Physick, London.  Printed by Richard Cotes and are to sold by Thomas Williams at the Bible in Little-Britain without Aldersgate, 1651.

Information available from the Alchemy Web Site:
http://www.levity.com/alchemy/jfren_ar.html


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Marzipan & Sugarpaste: medieval playdough!


 From the Aethelmearc Gazette, Tuesday July 12th, 2016, by Elska á Fjárfella:

The hens and their eggs at the Scarlet Apron cooking competition.
 
Inspired by the Scarlet Apron subtleties contest at Æthelmearc War Practice, I delved into the challenge of sculpting with food. And what’s better to play with than sugarpaste and marzipan!

As a traditional sweet at our Dutch Saint Nickolas celebrations and as filling of our traditional Christmas Stollen bread, marzipan (sweetened and finely pureed almondpaste) symbolizes home and the year’s end to me. For years, the store Aldi’s supported my seasonal habit… until a few years ago they stopped carrying German marzipan. Luckily, my best friend Angelika Rumberger, originally from Hamburg and with a similar seasonal sweet tooth, gets a holiday package filled with German goodies. The marzipan from Lübeck is highly prized! As Angelika grew up on Lübeck marzipan, considered to be the best marzipan in Germany (and probably the world), she was able to give me great feedback on what good marzipan should taste and feel like.

Even though modern marzipan is typically seen as a German sweet, it originated in the Orient (where almonds and sugar also originated). A Persian doctor, Rhazes, praised the curative qualities of almond and sugarpaste as far back as the 9th century. When the Crusaders returned from the Orient, they brought marzipan with them. Thirteenth century philosopher and theologian Thomas Aquinas reflected upon the indulgence of eating marzipan, reassuring his anxious clerics: “Marzipan does not break the fast.” And in his novels, 14th century poet and author Boccaccio clearly noted a correlation between passion and marzipan.

The hen mold liberally covered with powdered sugar in preparation for the sugarpaste.

In 13th century Italy, confectionery and spices were generally traded in tiny boxes. One theory is that the Italian word, mataban, for “small box,” gradually came to be used for the sweetmeat contents of the box: mazapane (Italian), massepain (French), marzipan (German, recently also English), marsepein (Dutch), and marchpane (English). The Latin form of marzipan appears as martiapanis in Johann Burchard’s Diarium curiae romanae (1483–1492), and Minshæu defines the word as Martius panis, or bread of Mars, for the elaborate towers, castles, and other subtleties made of this confectioner’s art sweetmeat.

For my subtlety entry, I choose to use marzipan as a filling and sugarpaste on the outside, since sugarpaste has a much finer definition of detail and would help keep the marzipan moist during display. As suggested in my period source, I wanted to use a mold and was lucky to find a good deal on a vintage Dutch candy mold. Even though this mold is obviously not period, the use of molds to shape food is period.

I based my marzipan on recipes in A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1602:

To make a Marchpane, to ice it, and garnish it after the Art of Comfit-making.

Take two pound of small Almonds blanched, and beaten into perfect Past, with a pound of suger finely searsed, putting in now and then a spoonfull or two of Rose water, to keepe it from oyling, and when it is beaten to perfect Past, rowle it thin, and cut it round by a charger, then set an edge on it, as you doe on a tart, then drie it in an Ouen, or a backing pan, then yce it with Rose water and suger, made as thicke as batter for fritters, when it is iced garnish it with conceits, and sticke long comfits in it, and so guild it, and serue it.

To make all sorts of banqueting conceits of Marchpane stuffe, some like Pyes, Birds, Baskets, and such like, and some to print with moulds.

TAke a pound of Almond past, made for the Marchpane, and drye it on a Chafindish of coales, till you see it waxe white, then you may print some with moulds, and make some with hands, and so guild them, then stoue them and you may keepe them all the yere. They bee excellent good to please children.


Both halves of the mold lined with sugarpaste.

Blessed with a local health food store, I was able to pick up two pounds of raw almonds. Then I looked up the word “blanched” simce I was unfamiliar with the process. Properly educated, I thought, I poured boiling water over the almonds so that the skins would loosen enough to be removed, since the skins are bitter and would darken the almond paste a brown color (rather than a very light beige). Since I do not own a large mortar and pestle (yet), I chose to run the blanched almonds through my food processor and came to the first hurdle: the almonds would crumble but not stick together as a paste! Maybe mixing in the sugar and rosewater would help it come together? But no… the period recipe clearly does not mention processing it twice. However, it did not look right, so I ran a small sample again and behold: marzipan! Apparently, modern almonds need to be processed twice?

This kept bugging me, and after some brainstorming with a fellow SCA cook, I learned about the difference between modern blanching and period blanching: in modern blanching, boiling water is used (a quick process) while in period blanching involved extended soaking in cold water (a slow process). And I wondered — would the extended soaking have a different effect? Soaking anything for extended periods hydrates tissue, and the same is true for soaking dried almonds: I suspected that grinding soaked almonds makes for perfect period marzipan.


The mold is filled with marzipan

Since historically marzipan is connected with both Christmas and with Easter celebrations, I choose a hen shape for the main mold. In Denmark and Norway, it is common to eat marzipan pigs for Christmas and marzipan eggs for Easter. And the English word marchpane might mean “march bread,” for marzipan shaped into a loaf. Inspired by the German tradition of Marzipankartoffeln, small potato-shaped marzipans dusted brown with Dutch cocoa, I shaped little egg marzipans. Instead of dusting with cocoa, as post-period kartoffeln are, I used spices available in period, including cinnamon, to give the “eggs” a beautiful brown glow (and a bit of a tartness in the first bite).

And what about the sugarpaste?

Sugar, by far the most important ingredient in confectionery, was first grown probably by the Persians and Arabs. Most importantly, they learned how to refine sugar from the raw cane plant. In Roman times, sugar (called saccharon) was available only as naturally exuded droplets from the cane. Before that time,  honey was the world’s main sweetener; after this discovery, the cultivation of sugar cane spread slowly throughout the Arab world. A number of sugar-related words trace their heritage to Arabic origin, including sugar to sukkar, candy to qand, and syrup to sharab.

In medieval times, sugar was imported by the Venetians and Genoese from Arab-controlled areas until the 1420’s, when the Portugese started cultivating cane in the Azores. Not only would sugar quickly become indispensible in medicine, as a sweetener, and a preservative, it also became an artistic culinary ingredient of amazing flexibility: sugarpaste, which could be molded, formed, and dried into an array of edible items.

Although THL Lijsbet de Keukere quickly pointed me in the right direction to find a period sugarpaste recipe, unfortunately it was made with an ingredient not typically found in modern cooking supply stores or supermarkets: gum tragacanth. This period binding agent (also known by gumme and dragant) is a bit challenging to locate (and more expensive) than modern gum paste. If you have the time, order a couple of ounces if only to experience sugarpaste from scratch. (See URL for a vendor below.)

Against my cooking philosophy but up against deadline I used modern gum paste, which was available in the bridal section of my local Jo-Ann’s Fabrics Store.


The mold is clamped tightly.

The most complete period recipe for sugarpaste comes from Thomas Dawson’s The Second Part of the Good Hus-wives Jewell, 1597 (see http://www.cooksplaydough.html  for a redacted recipe).

To make a past of Suger, whereof a man may make al manner of fruits, and other fine things with their forme, as Plates, Dishes, Cuppes and such like thinges, wherewith you may furnish a Table.

Take Gumme and dragant as much as you wil, and steep it in Rosewater til it be mollified, and for foure ounces of suger take of it the bigness of a beane, the iuyce of Lemon, a walnut shel ful, and a little of the white of an eg.  But you must first take the gumme, and beat it so much with a pestell in a brasen morter, till it be come like water, then put to it the iuyce with the white of an egge, incorporating al these wel together, this done take four ounces of fine white suger wel beaten to powder, and cast it into the morter by a litle and a litle, until they be turned into the form of paste, then take it out of the said morter, and bray it upon the powder of suger, as it were meale or flower, untill it be like soft paste, to the end you may turn it, and fashion it which way you wil.  When you have brought your paste to this fourme spread it abroad upon great or smal leaves as you shall thinke it good and so shal you form or make what things you wil, as is aforesaid, with such fine knackes as may serve a Table taking heede there stand no hotte thing nigh it.  At the ende of the Banket they may eat all, and breake the Platters Dishes, Glasses Cuppes, and all other things, for this paste is very delicate and saverous.  If you will make a Tarte of Almondes stamped with suger and Rosewater of this sorte that Marchpaines be made of, this shal you laye between two pastes of such vessels or fruits or some other things as you thinke good.

Modern sugarpaste is made by combining powdered sugar with gum paste and glucose. I used my trusted Kitchenaid mixer with the dough paddle attachment and followed the recipe on the gum paste’s can, and discovered that it made a fairly sticky dough (like thick peanut butter). To be able to sculpt I was expecting something more like bread dough, and since sometimes my bread dough is also similar to peanut butter when the liquid is off (that extra egg…) I did the same thing I’d do then and kept adding a dry ingredient. I added more powdered sugar slowly until the dough came together as a ball without sticking to the bowl, until it finally turned into something I felt comfortable sculpting with. According to the can’s instructions, I then rolled it into a loaf, wrapped it in plastic, and cured it at room temperature until the next day.


The two hens ready for final detail. The mold worked great!

The sugarpaste was initially dry to the touch, but probably due to body heat in handling it quickly became very sticky, which made sculpting rather frustrating. My solution was to keep my finger pads dusted with powdered sugar, which worked like a charm. To keep the sugarpaste from sticking to the mold (which would have made it impossible to unmold without losing the fine detail I wanted) I used a paper towel dipped in oil to grease the inside of the hen mold, and then liberally dusted both insides with powdered sugar. The sugarpaste hardly stuck to the walls and the hens were much easier to remove. I recommend keeping sugarpaste sculptures away from heat or moisture (including sunlight), and give it time to air dry until it becomes a beautiful chalky white.

While the sugarpaste I used was a modern substitute, I was able to make my marzipan with raw almonds and raw sugar. It therefore had a fairly course texture, which I really like. For a smoother marzipan, you could use finely ground almond flour and powdered sugar, which you can buy pre-made from a store. But never forget the rosewater – it’s the finishing touch of quality marzipan! The one feedback on my entry that is still with me is the remark that the “eggs” could have been made sweeter. I suspect cinnamon was at fault for this, as well as the influence of my Lübeck-trained friend who was very clear that good marzipan is never made with less than two-thirds almonds, to cater to a more refined European taste!


REFERENCES

http://www.niederegger.de/World-of-Marzipan/A-History-of-marzipan

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marzipan

https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/1911_Encyclop%C3%A6dia_Britannica/Marchpane

A Closet for Ladies and Gentlevvomen, Or, the Art of Preseruing, Conseruing and Candying, 1602. Edited and Annotated by Johanna H. Holloway, 2011. www.Medievalcookery.com

HistoricFood.com article on Confectionery

http://www.mkcc.rhawn.com/MKCCfiles/cooksplaydough.html (Countess Alys Katherine’s how-to article, which inspired many of the sugarpaste subtleties across the SCA)

Thomas Dawson, The Second Part of the Good Hus-wives Jewell (1597)

Where to buy gum tragacanth:

http://www.chemworld.com/Tragacanth-Gum-Powder-p/LO-7270-2.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4827BRDJvpbVuKvx-rIBEiQA2_CzsNCeGynEUvEuLBWy2IwlgH3kksXHao_j7vt4Jd8CnwMaAnBH8P8HAQ