Transcribed below are the chapters of mead and honey drinks from Christoph Wirsung's Im Artzney Buch from 1654 (first edition 1568). The original book is in German so I choose to work with the later English text, which is available from the restricted section of Early English Books Online.
The 7. Of Meade, a common drink.
The Hony water and the Meade are not onely invented for their vertue, but also for necessity, chiefly in such Countries where no Wine groweth, or may not be used. And it is very true, that this drink is more wholesome then sulphured Wine; for although the Mead be hot by nature, yet it is tempered with moisture, wherefore it cannot overheat nor overdry one. And albeit that this Mead may be made according to the fashion of every Countrey, diversly; yet neverthelesse is this the commonest manner, viz. that one take 8. quarts of water unto one quart of hony, and so let it seeth by a gentle fire, scumming it so long until it begin to be clear.
It is also here to be noted, that how much longer you think to keep the Mead, so much the longer are you to seeth the same. When it is cold, then put it into a vessel, and let it be three fingers empty, to the end it may work. If so be that you desire to have the same stronger and more forcible, then hang these spices following in it, viz, Ginger, Cinamom, Cloves, Galangal, Nutmegs, and such like, and that in weight, as we shall write thereafter, of the aromatical wines. Some do take also Saffron unto it not only for the colour, but also for his vertue, and for that it yeeldeth a good flavour to the Mead. When it hath spurged or wrought, then is the same to be letten lie stopped the space of three moneths. But in case you desire to use it presently, then seeth the same not long, and expect not her working, but drink it freely as soon as it is cold, and then the next day make new again. In Liefeland they have in some places a custome, that they hoope their vessels with Iron, and so bury the Mead under the earth, and this will be stronger then any wine, but we will permit such countries to keep their customes. If you desire to make quickly a good Mead, then take a good Nutmeg, and one ounce of Cinamom cut small, and pour thereon three quarts of water, then let the third part seeth away, and then put unto it half a pound of clarified hony, this being done, let it seeth again together, until that there remain about a good quart.
In old time was this Mead following to be made; take hony combs, wash the same well with luke-warm water, and afterwards let it seeth well. But if it be not sweet enough, then put more hony unto it, and scum it well; afterwards put thereto prepared Coriander half a pound, Sage and Hops, of each one handful, let a third part seeth away, and so keep it in a firre fat, at last hang Valerian, Cinamom, Cloves, Nutmegs, and, Mace therein.
Another sort: take as much scummed hony as you please, put in same into a clean leaded pot, and pour as much water unto it as you please, then take Sugar and Marjoram (according as you desire it to be strong). And if you will put any Cinamom unto it, that is also not amisse, then let it seeth together, and skum it well. If so be that you desire to have it brown, then take 2. or 3. spoonfuls of hony, and let the same seeth well, and stir it well about until that it be strong, as soon as you take it from the fire, then pour presently water upon it, it will boyle together, and then pour the rest unto it, strain out the herbs, and then keep it in a cellar.
The common vertues of these Meads be, that they quench thirst. It is also good for all cold diseases of the braines, of the backbone, of the sinews, and for all other diseases, for which wine is hurtful, by his penetrating vertue and force it cleanseth and openeth the breast, it taketh away the cold dry cough, it cleanseth the Kidneys, the reines, the conduits of urine, and the bladder, of all cold slimy matter whereof the gravel and the stone doth grow and it expelleth also all hurtful matter out of the guts, wherefore the same is to be used in all diseases of the braines, as in the giddinesse, in the falling sicknesse, and in lamenesse which is caused thereby. In like manner it is very good for them that be Plagued with the Cramp, and the hot Podagra.
The 6. Of Melicraton.
This do we call in
English Wine Meade, whereof the ancient Physitians do make two sorts,
for the one they took two parts of sowr Wine, and one part of Hony. When
this is waxen old, then it is nourishing; when it is meetly old, then
it is very requisite for the stomach and the belly, and it expelleth
also urine: but after meat it is not very wholsome to be drunken. If one
will use the same quickly, then must these two things be boyled
together. Other do take six parts of Must, and let the same be hot, then
do they pour a quart of Hony unto it, and when it hath boyled a while,
then do they preserve the same. This Melicraton is beforetime much more
usual then now adaies, and especially with the Romans, which called the
same Vinum Muscum.
The 3. Hony water. Hydromel.
Honey
water or our course Meade do the Grecians call Hydromel, and the
Latinists Aquam Mulsam; this water is to be used for many things, and
expecially in Physick for two kind of things: the first, if one will
loose the belly of procure vomit, then temper the same with two parts of
old rain water, and one part of Hony, and so let it stand in the Sun.
This Hony water is to be tempered with oyl if the cause require it, and
being luke-warm used for vomiting: the other Hony water is to be sodden
and used also for many kinds of things, as we in this book have in many
places declared.
The 24. Hydromel. Hony water how to make and use the same.
It is
before oftentimes mentioned, and therefore it very worthy for to
describe here how to make it : The ancient Physitians took rain water
and Honey decocted there with, scumming it well, and using it for a
common drink, in the stead of water or wine, like as also it standeth
discovered in many places of this Book ; now it is for the most part
made with Well-water and Honey. In fine, Hydromel is no other thing but
our commmon mead without any addition : of other sorts of mead is spoken
hereafter in the eight part.
From Im Artzney Buch by Christoph Wirsung. first edition 1568.
In 1618 translated into Dutch as Medicyn Boeck by the doctor Carolus Dattum.
And in 1654 translated into English by Jacob Mosan, Germane, Doctor in the same faculty (the Fourth and last edition) as The General Practise of Physick containing all inward and outward parts of the body, with all the accidents and infirmities that are incident unto them, even from the crown of the heat to the sole of the foot. Compiled and written by the most famous and learned Doctor Christopher Wirtzung, in the Germane tongue, and now translated into English, in divers places corrected, and with many additions, illustrated and augmented.
Sunday, December 31, 2017
Wednesday, December 20, 2017
Gruit, een middeleeuws bier van de Lage Landen.
Gruit is een verzamelwoord met verschillende
betekenissen: een middeleeuwse bier; het ingredient nodig om dit bier mee te
maken;[1] de
monopolie om dit ingredient te produceren en te verkopen; de omzetbelasting die
voortvloeide uit deze monopolie; en het moderne gekruide craft bier gemaakt
zonder hops.
Waar kwam gruit voor.
Middeleeuws gruit bier werd
gebrouwen in the Lage Landen van Vlaanderen, Nederland en west Duitsland[2] tussen
ongeveer de 10de tot de 15de eeuw. Met de import van het nieuwe Duitse gehopte
bier in het begin van de 14de eeuw stapten de Hollandse brouwers over naar het
brouwen met hops[3]; de
zuidelijke Nederlanden hield tot eind van de 15de eeuw in meer of mindere mate
vast aan de traditionele wijze van brouwen.
Het gruitrecht.
Het recht om gruit te produceren en
te verkopen was in de 10de eeuw via keizerlijke schenkingen eerst in handen van
de kerk en land eigenaren gekomen. In de 12de en 13de eeuw verleenden ook zij dit
recht, nu niet alleen aan individuen maar ook aan steden.[4] Door
de opkomst van verstedelijking in de 13de eeuw, waarbij brouwen als beroep ontstond,[5] konden
dorpen en steden dit recht gebruikten om brouwen voor verkoop te belasten.[6] Toen
dit recht in handen kwam van steden - de opbrengst werd o.a. gebruikt om
openbare werken (en oorlog) mee te betalen[7] -
werden de inkopen en verkopen van het product gruit nauwkeurig bijgehouden in de
stedelijke Cameraars rekeningen, waarvan meerdere zijn overgeleverd.
Wat was in gruit.
In eerste instantie was gruit een
combinatie van een graan product[8] met
bederfwerende kruiden. Om gruit bier langer
houdbaar te maken werd het bier met een relatief hoog alcohol gehalte gebrouwen
en de huidige theorie is dat de wort werd versterkt met een siroopachtig graan extract.[9] Naast
dit graan product werd over het algemeen ook een combinatie van kruiden
toevoegd, plus geraffineerde hars dat ook een conserverende werking heeft.[10] De
gebruikte kruiden waren ofwel gagel (Myrica
gale) of moeras rozemarijn (Ledum
palustre)[11],
laserkruid (Laserpitium siler) en
laurier besjes (Laurus nobilis).[12] Mogelijkerwijs
werd ook hops gebruikt,[13]
vooral in de overgangsperiode van gruit naar gehopt bier. Alleen in de
rekeningen van 1391 en 1393 in het gruithuis in Keulen is sprake van anijs (Pimpinella anisum), jenever besjes (Juniperus communis) en iets wat
vermoedelijk karwij (Carvum carvi) kan
zijn.[14] De
beschikbare historische bronnen duiden aan dat andere kruiden genoemd in verband
met middeleeuws gruit, zoals salie (Salvia
officinalis) en duizendblad (Achillea
millefolium),[15] voornamelijk
berusten op speculaties vanuit verouderd onderzoek.[16]
Een verouderde technologie.
Het hop gewas is voor het eerst te
vinden in de 9de eeuw in Duitsland en ten tijde van de 12de eeuw is er sprake
van hop tuinen voor het gebruik in bier in noord Duitsland. Bier gebrouwen met
hops en de juiste techniek blijft veel langer goed.[17] Maar
het had ook een ander groot voordeel in een land van vele oorlogen en graan
schaarsten: het had veel minder graan nodig om een drinkbaar en goed houdbaar
bier te maken.[18] De
Bischop van Utrecht
klaagde in 1364 over “de Novus modus
fermentandi cervisiam” ofwel “een nieuwe methode om bier te brouwen” die
zijn inkomsten uit gruit sterk verminderden.[19] Niet
alleen het gebruik van hops was nieuw, ook de manier waarop bier met hops
gebrouwen werd. Waar voorheen het voldoende was om de gemoute en gebroken graan
te mengen met heet water in een grote pot, om vervolgens het graanvocht af te
filteren en te laten gisten;[20]
bij het brouwen met hops was een extra stap nodig. De hop bellen worden een uur
lang met het gefilterde graanvocht (de wort) gekookt om de bederfwerende stoffen
beschikbaar te maken; en zo onstond de nieuwe manier van brouwen.[21]
In de 13de eeuw werd hops de belangrijkste
toevoeging in het noord Duitse bier, met als gevolg het eerste bier geschikt
voor export en handel.[22] Deze
handel introduceerde andere delen van Europa met gehopt bier, en onder andere Holland
schakelde over tot de import en later het brouwen van gehopt bier voor de eigen
handel. Waarschijnlijk was dit process in de zuiderlijke Lage Landen vertraagd omdat
de lokale kerken en overheden wel baat hadden bij de verkoop van gruit, maar
niet bij de verkoop van hop of gehopt bier. Zo klaagde in 1401 de stad Zwolle bij de bischop Frederik
of Blankenheim over zijn intentie om hun gruitrecht te verlengen ‘hoppenbyer, dat men gemeenlike drynket in
onssen lande, daer onse gruyten … seer mede afgegaen, ende vernyelt syn,’
In eerste instantie werd de inkoop
en productie van gehopt bier verboden. Toen dat niet haalbaar bleek te zijn werd
ook gehopt bier belast,[23]
in eerste instantie zelfs onder dezelfde noemer als gruit. Graaf Willem III beoordeelde
in 1326 bij een ruzie tussen hopbrouwers en de baljuw “dat zoe wie voorwaerd meer die grute te Leiden housen zel, die zel houden beyde hoppe
ende gruyte”.[24] Toen de
hop gruit geheel vervangen had, paste de belasting zich ook weer aan: van de heffing
op een ingredient tot omzetbelasting, ontwikkelde het door tot invoerrechten.
Gruit als geneeskrachtig kruiden
bier.
De overgang naar hops maakte het
mout aspect van gruit overbodig en de techniek in connectie met gruit verdween
uit mensheugenis.[25] Gruit
bier als een geneeskrachtig kruiden bier is langer bekend gebleven. Opgenomen
in Eenen Nyeuwen Coock Boeck uit 1511
als een van de gezonde recepten voor “den
wech der ghesondheyt” is dit het enige bekende recept voor gruytbier:[26]
Om
Gruyt, ende Gruytbier te maken. Neemt tegen eenen pot een koren bakelaer (een
laurier besje), ende alsoo veel aipoys (hars), ende wat haveren doppen
(zemelen), ende twee saykens (zaadjes) van gagel. Ende maeckt dit bier alleen
van gherstenmoute, ende set dit dan met ghiste.[27]
Hedendaags gruit.
Ontstaan uit noodzaak voor een betere
kwaliteit bier; de genesis van omzetbelasting dat vele organisaties en families
rijk heeft gemaakt: na de introductie van gehopt bier was het rap gedaan met
gruit bier. Op enkele 16de eeuwse vermeldingen na, was de praktijk kennis van
gruit ten tijde van de 17de eeuw geheel verdwenen. De hernieuwde interesse in
de 19de en 20ste eeuwse in onze
vaderlandse geschiedenis, inclusief gruit, had vele wilde theorieen tot gevolg.[28]
Met de hedendaagse interesse in
historische bieren is de interesse in gruit bier ook hernieuwd. Opvallend is
hierbij dat vooral aandacht wordt besteed aan het maken van gekruid bier, met
het idee van gruit / kruid in tegenstelling tot ons moderne gehopte bier. Maar
er zit meer achter gruit bier dan een handje vol kruiden, en de historische
achtergrond van dit uniek middeleeuws Lage Landen bier verdient zeker een eigen
spotlight.
Bibliografie
Ackersdyck, W.C. Het Regt van de Gruit. Haak, 1819.
Alberts, Leen. Brouwen aan de Eem. Hilversum: Verloren, 2016.
Dodonaeus, Rembertus. Herbarius oft Cruydt-Boeck Leiden: Francoys van
Ravelingen, 1618.
Doorman, G. De Middeleeuwse Brouwerij en de Gruit.
Den Haag: Martinus Nijhoff, 1955.
Ebbing, Hans. Gruytgeld ende Hoppenbier. Amsterdam: Universiteit
van Amsterdam, 1994.
Ebbing, H. & van
Vilsteren, V.T. Van Gruiters, gruitketels
and gruithuizen. Kistemaker, R.E. & van Vilsteren, V.T. (editors) Bier!
De geschiedenis van een volksdrank. Amsterdam:
De Bataafsche Leeuw, 1994.
Eberhardt, Ilse. Die Grutamtsrechnungen der Stadt Münster von
1480 und 1533. Münster: Aschendorff Verlag, 2002.
Ennen, Leonard. Quellen zur
Geschichte der Stadt Köln, herausg, von L. Ennen und G. Eckertz, Volume 6, 1879.
Hallema, A. & Emmens,
J.A. Het bier en zijn brouwers. Amsterdam: J.H de Bussy,
1968.
von Hofsten, Nils. Pors och andra Humleersättningar och
ölkryddor i äldre tider. Copenhaven: Lundequistska Bokhandeln, 1960.
Lobelius (l'Obel), Matthias. Kruydtboeck oft beschrijvinghe van allerleye
ghewassen, kruyderen, hesteren ende gheboomten. Christoffel Plantijn, 1581
(first edition 1551).
Meußdoerffer, Franz G. A Comprehensive History of Beer Brewing.
Weinheim: WILEY-VCH Verlag, 2009.
Noordewier, M.J. Nederduitse Regtsoudheden. Utrecht: Kemink en Zoon,
1853.
Ruis, Frederik. A note on the essence of gruit. Brewery
History 166, 50-53, 2016.
Schookius, Martin (Schook). Libre de cervisiae. Groningen: 1661.
Schulte, Aloys. Vom
Grutbiere. Eine Studie zur Wirtschafts-
und Verfassungsgeschichte. 1908.
van Summeren, P.N. Over gruit, gruitbier en daarmee
samenhangende woorden. Maastricht:
Natuurhistorisch Genootschap, 1948.
van Vilsteren, V.T. In den beginne… De oorsprong en techniek van
het brouwen tot de 14de eeuw. Kistemaker, R.E. & van Vilsteren, V.T.
(editors). Bier! Geschiedenis van een volksdrank. Amsterdam: De Bataafsche Leeuw, 1994.
van Vilsteren, V.T. From Herbs to Hops: Outlines of the Brewing
Process in Medieval Europe. New York City: De Halve
Maen, 1996.
Vorselman, Gerardus. Eenen nyeuwen coock boeck. Elly
Cockx-Indestege (editor). Wiesbaden:
Guido Pressler, 1971.
van de Wall, Pieter Hendrik. Handvesten, Privilegien, Vrijheden, voorregten,
octrooijen … der stad Dordrecht.
Dordrecht:
Pieter van Braam, 1790.
Wright, Joseph (editor). The
English Dialect Dictionary. New York:
G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1900.
Wubs-Mrozewicz, Justyna. Hopped Beer as an Innovation. Hilversum: Uitgeverij
Verloren, 2005.
[1] Zo tot
de 12de eeuw werden documenten in Latijn opgesteld en werd gruit met
“fermentum” (Ackersdyck 1819, 135, 185, 190; Doorman 1955, 72, 73; Ebbing 1994,
28; Noordewier 1853, 230; Van de Wall 1790, 151), “maire”, “maeira” (Doorman
1995, 72; Ebbing 1994, 27-28) en “frumentum” (Doorman 1955, 72; Ebbing 1994,
27) aangeduid: het eerste in de betekenis van transformatie, de laatste drie
varianten van een graan product.
[2]
Middeleeuws Scandinavie brouwde met kruiden waaronder gagel maar had geen gruit
traditie. (Hofsten 1960, 211) In middeleeuws Engeland werd zowel kruiden bier
als grout bier gebrouwn, maar was er geen gruit traditie aanwezig vergelijkbaar
met de Lage Landen.
[3]
Ackersdyck 1819, 194; Schulte 1908, 140
[6] In het algemeen werd brouwen voor eigen gebruik in de middeleeuwen niet belast (Hallema 1968, 40; Meußdoerffer 2009, 11)
[7] Alberts 2016, 24
[8] Alberts 2017, 29; Ebbing 1994, 19; Meußdoerffer 2009, 12; Ruis 2016, 52
[9] Albert 2016, 29; Ebbing 1994, 19; Ruis 2016, 52: in diverse (alle?) gruithuizen waren kook ketels en rosmolens aanwezig, werden vaten gebruikt voor gruit opslag en verkoop, en er is sprake van het bijproduct “soppa fermenti” ofwel “gruetsoppe”, in moderne term bostel genaamd, bij het produceren van gruit; zie o.a. Doorman 1955 en Ebbing 1994.
[10] Doorman 1955, 29; Vorselman 1560, 225
[11] Het gebruik van gagel, of moeras rosemarijn, was verbonden aan de elkaar buitensluitende verspreidingsgebieden van beide planten; Eberhardt 2002, 16; Hofsten 1960, 211
[12] Doorman 1955, 27 & 30; Rubel 1892, 185-188; Ennen 1879, 55-57 & 189-190
[13] De rekeningen van Deventer (Doorman 1955), Dortmund (Rübel 1892) en Keulen (Ennen 1879) noteren uitgavenposten voor hop.
[14] Ennen 1879, 55-57 & 189-190
[15] Doorman 1955, 30
[16] Bijvoorbeeld Hofsten (1960, 211) vermeld ‘Arnold mentions yarrow, but this statement is very questionable’.
[17] Wubs-Mrozewicz 2005, 154
[18] Wubs-Mrozewicz 2005, 167
[19] Ackerdyck, 194; Beckmann 1817, 337; Schulte 1908, 140
[20] Alberts 2016, 31
[21] Vilsteren 1996, 45
[22] Wubs-Mrozewicz 2005, 153
[23] Wubs-Mrozewicz 2005, 155
[24] Hallema 1968, 37
[25] Het brouwen met malt siroop is bekend gebleven als naerbier (Dodonaeus 1644, 813) en Engels graut en grout bier (Dodonaeus 1644, 813; Wright 1900, 742)
[26] Schookius (1661, 216) omschrijft gruit bier in zijn Libre de cervisiae waarbij de beschreven ingredienten overeen komen met dit recept.
[27] Vorselman 1560, 225
[28] Voor
Doorman in zijn scriptie de Middeleeuwse
Brouwerij en de gruit zijn conclusie publiceerde dat gruit een exclusief
kruiden product was, wat vervolgens als feit werd aangenomen, waren er veel
meer theorieen. BIjvoorbeeld Jan van Hout (1602) dacht dat het een stof was om bier
van bederf te behouden; Mattheus (1783) dacht aan genatte mout, en van de Wall
(1790) vermoede gist. Beckmann (1817) zei ‘it almost appears that gruit was a
fermenting substance indispensably necessary to beer’ en Ackersdyck (1819)
vroeg zich af of de eerste letters van gruit en kruid verwisseld waren.
Noordewier (1853) omschrijft het werk van de gruiter ofwel fermentarii
als het malt maken van barley of rogge gort voor het maken van bier. Van
Summeren (1948) kwam tot de conclusie dat het in eerste instantie malt gemaakt
van gort betekende, maar later alleen de betekenis van kruiden behouden had. De
meest hilarische uitleg: het betalen van gruitgeld om kroos en andere
waterplanten uit het sloot water bestemd voor brouwen te laten verwijderen!
Friday, December 15, 2017
Carl Pause Das Grutbier: Biergenuss ohne Hopfen; Gruit beer, beer enjoyment without hops.
Carl Pause, Das Grutbier: Biergenuss ohne Hopfen. In: Carl Pause (Hrsg. ), Neuss und das Altbier. Neuss 2013, 33-38.
https://www.academia.edu/20439957/Carl_Pause_Das_Grutbier_Biergenuss_ohne_Hopfen._In_Carl_Pause_Hrsg._Neuss_und_das_Altbier._Neuss_2013_33-38?auto=download
Translated by Susan Verberg, 2017.
Gruit beer , beer enjoyment without hops.
In the Middle Ages on the Lower Rhine, they drank a herbal beer which was called grut, gruit, gruyt or Grüssing, after its spices addition and which was known in Neuss under the name Graut. It was brewed with the addition of leaves and fruits of the bog myrtle (gagel) and is therefore known today as gagelbeer. From the 14th century onwards grut beer was gradually displaced by hop beer.
https://www.academia.edu/20439957/Carl_Pause_Das_Grutbier_Biergenuss_ohne_Hopfen._In_Carl_Pause_Hrsg._Neuss_und_das_Altbier._Neuss_2013_33-38?auto=download
Translated by Susan Verberg, 2017.
Gruit beer , beer enjoyment without hops.
In the Middle Ages on the Lower Rhine, they drank a herbal beer which was called grut, gruit, gruyt or Grüssing, after its spices addition and which was known in Neuss under the name Graut. It was brewed with the addition of leaves and fruits of the bog myrtle (gagel) and is therefore known today as gagelbeer. From the 14th century onwards grut beer was gradually displaced by hop beer.
Grutbier played a
considerable part not only for professional brewers, but also for the home
brewing citizens in the cities and the country peasants. In the Middle Ages, no
method was known to cool the wort during the manufacturing process. Therefore
Grutbier was like today’s Altbier top fermented at fermentation temperatures
around 18 ° C and brewed in summer. In a Neuss
council decision of 1357, June is even referred to as "Bramant" – brew
month.
Grutbier is
mentioned for the first time in a 974 AD privilege of Emperor Otto II (955-983)
for the church of Liège.2 Presumably, grutbier is even older, as already in
early medieval England a similar herbal beer was known.3 Medieval Bavaria knew
a drink called "gräwzzing", "greuzenich",
"gräussing" or "greissing" as well.4
The production of grut was a sovereign right, which was passed on or leased by the respective sovereign for payment to cities or private individuals. The seasoning additive was produced in special Gruthauses. In Neuss, the abbess of the Quirinus monastery was the owner of the grut courthouse. As early as 1283, a grove house and a gardener named Konrad were documented in writing. The Gruthaus was located on modern day’s Münsterplatz in the area of the monastery of St. Quirin. Supposedly it already existed in the time of Archbishop Anno II of Koln (1056-1075), but this reference comes from a document faked in the 13th century.5
How the Neusser made their grut is unfortunately not known. After all, it seems to have been of such good quality that in 1408 the people of Koln dubbed it better than their own. However, information on the composition of Grut is available from other cities. They [these ingredients] are more or less valid for Neuss as well.
From 1272 grut
right was in the hands of the city of Wesel.
Because of this ingredients purchased for the production of grut are listed in
the municipal accounting books.7 The main component of grut was thus "gagelkruyt",
which in the sources also appears under the Latin name of "custum".
The gagel, or bog myrtle, botanical name of Myrica gale,
was bought mostly in the Netherlands,
especially in Deventer, Zwolle,
Dordrecht and Arnhem,
but also directly supplied to the Wesel
citizens. It was the most expensive part of the grut. In addition, resin,
"siler montanus" and the berries of the laurel tree were added to the
grut. These ingredients were mostly bought in Koln.
In Koln, the grut
was produced in a similar way as in Wesel, but using additional spices.12 This
can be seen from a purchase account from the year 1391 13 and a written down 1393
inventory from the Koln Gruthaus.14
In addition to bog myrtle, resin, laurel berries 15, Kümmel [caraway] 16,
Feldkümmel [also caraway] 17, anise, laserwort and ginger 18 were added. The latter was sold dried in sacks in Koln and also "green" (as a fresh root) in ceramic vessels.19 Furthermore, they noted "gegirde spryen", which the Koln Gruthaus sourced from millers and brewers.20
Feldkümmel [also caraway] 17, anise, laserwort and ginger 18 were added. The latter was sold dried in sacks in Koln and also "green" (as a fresh root) in ceramic vessels.19 Furthermore, they noted "gegirde spryen", which the Koln Gruthaus sourced from millers and brewers.20
[translator: the 1391 and 1393 accounts from Koln do not list laserwort or its variants. While the identification of bog myrtle, resin, laurel berries, anise and juniper (not ginger) is conclusive, the identification of caraway is not confirmed, especially as here both kroun/karoem and koem/koempt are translated as one and the same, while the accounts note them as two separate herbs/entries]
Photo: Bierbrauer bei
der Arbeit, after Jost Ammanns „Ständebuch“, 1568.
After drying, the
ferment was ground in the Grutmühle,
a horse mill. The resulting powder, a spice mixture with dry yeast, was sold to
the Brauer, which then put it into the mash and set with it the fermentation of
the wort in motion. Obviously, the grut did not last long because it was
released in relatively small quantities. The herbs contained in it should have
given the beer a sharp, slightly sweet taste with a bitter note.
In Koln, the grut was prepared according to different recipes: in 1420 Koln used only spelt chaff, bog myrtle, cumin and resin and a small amount of hops.26 In Duisburg also used cherries, probably sour cherries, in the grut.27
In the end,
however, the production of grut was quite uniform, as the same ingredients were
used in neighboring Westphalia and Lower Saxony as on the Lower
Rhine. Thus, the Osnabrücker grut contained bog myrtle, spelt,
"Scharpetangen", laurel and resin.28 In Westphalia, bog myrtle was
sometimes referred to as Porst, which
has caused some confusion among the historians, as it was also used for marsh
rosemary (Ledum palustre L.).29
The 1408 brewed
beer was a thin beer. A decree of the Koln City Council of 1429 showed that the
brewers were obligated by oath to use for each type of beer a certain amount of
malt, so as to ensure the quality of the Koln
beer. From a malter malt therefore should
be brewed three ohms of thin beer. On
the other hand, the thick beer had twice the amount of original wort: each malter malt produced only 1.5 ohms of beer. The use of oats and
"hollow" spelt (Spelzspreu)
was forbidden in this process by the way.
Now it would be
interesting to know how many liters are in a Koln
ohm and malter in the 15th century. Unfortunately, there are only from
Napoleonic times precise details, 33 which can not be easily transferred to the
Middle Ages. Therefore, we have to make rough estimates here: assuming a size
of 200 l for the ohm and a size of
150 l for the malter, 35 kg of malt
were used to produce one hectolitre of lager beer, and about 17 kg were used for
the thin beer. Today, for the production of one hectoliter of beer with an
alcohol content of 4.7%, about 20 kg of brewing malt are needed. Since the malt
yield is now much more efficient due to improved technology, the medieval Dickbier [thick beer] should have possessed
a similar [Stammwürz = sugars in solution] and alcohol content as today's beer,
while Dünnbier [thin beer] and the grut beer probably only contained 2-3%
alcohol.
When grutbier
finally disappeared along the Lower Rhine, one
can not say for sure. Although in the
16th century hop beer prevailed nationwide grut beer seems to have been brewed
until the end of the Thirty Years War, because the "graut" is
mentioned in 1649 in the official letter of the Neusser Brauer! As a niche product, grut beer probably was long
lived in other places along the Lower Rhine, especially in the countryside, as
the situation in present-day Lower Saxony suggests: the city council of
Osnabrück took the decision in 1702 to henceforth prohibiting the use of bog
myrtle in the production of beer, and in the city of Oldenburg bog myrtle was
banned as late as 1724!
ENDNOTES
_______________
1 F. Lau, Quellen zur Rechts- und Wirtschaftsgeschichte der
rheinischen Städte. Kurkölnische Städte I: Neuss. Publikationen der Gesellschaft für
rheinische Geschichtskunde 29 (Bonn 1911/Düsseldorf 1984), Nr. 55, S. 77.
2 A. Schulte, Vom Grutbiere. Eine Studie zur Wirtschafts-
und Verfassungsgeschichte. In: Annalen des Historischen Vereins für den
Niederrhein 85, 1908, S. 118-146, hier: S. 132; W. Herborn, Römerbier,
Grutbier, Hopfenbier. Zur rheinischen Biergeschichte von den Anfängen bis zum
Beginn der Neuzeit. In: F. Langensiepen (Hrsg.), Bierkultur an Rhein und Maas,
(Bonn 1998) S.
195-218, hier: S. 207ff.
3 An Stelle des Hopfens gab man Gagel, Wermut, Beifuß,
Mädesüß, Scharfgarbe und Gundermann in die Maische, wodurch das Bier einen
würzigen, süßlichen Geschmack bekam. [In place of the hops, gagel, wormwood, mugwort, meadowsweet, Scharfgarbe and Gundermann were added to the mash,
giving the beer a spicy, sweetish taste.] Vgl. A. Hagen, A Second
Handbook of Anglos-Saxon food and Drink. Production and Distribution (Hockwold
cum Wilton 1995) S. 209ff.
4 K. Hackel-Stehr, Das Brauwesen in Bayern vom 14. bis 16.
Jahrhundert, insbesondere die Entstehung und Entwicklung des Reinheitsgebotes [in particular the emergence and
development of the purity law] (1516) (Berlin
1987) S. 30 u. S.
367ff.
5 G. Fischer und W. Herborn,
Geschichte des rhein cischen Brauwesens. In: Bierbrauen im Rheinland. Führer und
Schriften des Rheinischen Freilichtmuseums und Landesmuseums für Volkskunde in
Kommern 28 (Köln 1985) S. 9-118, hier: S. 34.
6 H. von Loesch, Die Kölner Zunfturkunden nebst anderen
Kölner Gewerbeurkunden bis zum Jahre 1500, Bd. 2 (Bonn 1907) Nr. 250, S. 64.
7 Ch. Kraus, Entwicklung des Weseler Stadthaushaltes von
1342-1390 dargestellt auf Grund der Stadtrechnungen. Studien und Quellen zur
Geschichte von Wesel II (Wesel
1907) S. 10, 79f.
8 Vgl. Schulte (Anm. 2): „Der Roßkümmel, des -s, plur. inus.
eine dem Kümmel sehr ähnliche Art des Laserkrautes, welche in dem mittägigen
Deutschland wohnet, und dessen Samen in den Apotheken gebraucht wird.
Laserpitium Siler L. In andern Gegenden führet der Silan oder Bärwurz,
Peucedanum Silaus L. diesen Nahmen, und in noch andern der Schierling.“ [The Roßkümmel, the -s, plur. inus. a type of laser herb very
similar to caraway, which lives in modern day Germany, and whose seeds are used
in pharmacies. Laserpitium Siler L. in other regions the silane or bearwort,
Peucedanum silaus L., carries this name, and in still others the hemlock];
J. C. Adelung, Grammatisch-kritisches Wörterbuch der hochdeutschen Mundart, mit
beständiger Vergleichung der übrigen Mundarten, besonders aber der
Oberdeutschen von Johann Christoph Adelung. Mit D. W. Soltau’s Beyträgen
revidirt und berichtiget von Franz Xaver Schönberger (Wien 1811), Spalte 1166.
<http://lexika.digitale-sammlungen.de/adelung/lemma/bsb00009133_6_1_1822>
[Zugriff am: 5.11.2012].
9 „serpents-tonghe: Sagitta, sagittalis, sagittaria: herba
foliis longioribus, & angustioribus serpentis linguam, siue alatae sagittae
cuspidem referens“: C. Kiliaan, Etymologicum Teutonicae Linguae (1599).
<http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/kili001etym01_01/kili001etym01_01_0027.php#27480>
[Zugriff am 5.11.2012].
10 Der Archäobotaniker Ernst Behre glaubt die Pflanze, die
auch Serpentin oder „zwaercruyt“ genannt wird, mit dem hierzulande als Blauer
Heinrich oder Natternkopf {(Echium vulgare L.)} bekannten Kraut gleichsetzen zu
können, doch ist dies unwahrscheinlich, da sich der Gewöhnliche Natternkopf
zwar als Salatpflanze,
nicht aber als Gewürz eignet. [The archaeobotanist Ernst Behre believes that the
plant, which is also called serpentine or "zwaercruyt", can be
equated with the herb known in this country as the Blue Henry or Adder's Head
(Echium vulgare L.), but this is unlikely since the Common Adderhead is a salad
plant, not a spice.] E. Behre, Zur Geschiche des Bieres und der
Bierwürze in Mitteleuropa. In: Gerstensaft und Hirsebier. 5000 Jahre Biergenuß.
Sonderausstellungen. Staatliches
Museum für Naturkunde und
Vorgeschichte Oldenburg vom 04. Juli bis 13. September 1998. Schloßmuseum Jever
vom 05. Juli bis 1. Oktober 1998 (Oldenburg
1998) S. 49-88.
11 Vgl. Schulte (Anm. 2).
12 F. Irsigler, Hermann von Goch als Kölner Grutpächter. In:
E. Ennen und D. Höroldt (Hrsg.), Aus Geschichte und Volkskunde von Stadt und
Raum Bonn. Festschrift Josef Dietz zum 80. Geburtstag am 8. April 1973. (Bonn 1973) S. 79-88.
13 L. Ennen (Hrsg.), Quellen zur Geschichte der Stadt Köln 6
(Köln 1878) Nr. 29, S. 55ff.
14 L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 111, S. 189f.
15 „bacheller“, „backgeler“: L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 29, S.
55ff u. Nr. 111, S. 189. Vgl. „Baeckelaer, lauwer besie: Bacca lauri.“: C.
Kiliaan, Etymologicum Teutonicae Linguae (1599)
<http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/kili001etym01_01/kili001etym01_01_0011.php>
[Zugriff am 27.09.2012].
16 „kroun“, „karoun“, „karoen“, L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 29,
S. 55ff u. Nr. 111, S. 189f. Vgl. „KARBE, f. carum carvi, der gemeine kümmel,
feldkümmel“: Deutsches Wörterbuch von Jacob Grimm und Wilhelm Grimm XI (Leipzig
1854-1960; Quellenverzeichnis 1971) 207.
17 „koem“, „kuemp“: L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 29, S. 55ff u.
Nr. 111, S. 189f.
18 „genver“: L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 29, S. 55ff u. Nr. 111,
S. 189f.
19 B. Kuske (Hrsg.), Quellen zur Geschichte des Kölner
Handels und Verkehrs im Mittelalter 1: 12. Jahrhundert bis 1449. Publikationen
der Gesellschaft für rheinische Geschichtskunde 33. (Bonn 1923/Düsseldorf 1978)
S. 60, Nr.174 u. S. 87, Nr. 243.
20 Irsigler (Anm. 12) S. 79-88.
21 Noch heute werden im Luxemburgischen die Grannen der
Kornähren als Spreien bezeichnet: [Even
today in Luxembourgish the awns of the ears of corn are called spree:] „Spreien,
pl., (écon. rur.), der Bart, die langen Granen an den Kornähren,[ the beard,
the long grains on the ears of corn,] les barbes des épis
[the beards of
the ears ]“: J. F. Gangler, Lexicon 38 der
Luxemburger Umgangssprache 8 Luxemburg 18479.
<http://engelmann.uni.lu:8080/portal/WBB2009/
LLU/wbgui_py?lemid=US00679> [Zugriff am 5.11.2012].
22
<http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/kili001etym01_01/kili001etym01_01_0016.php#9832>
[Zugriff am 27.09.2012].
23 Irsigler (Anm. 12) S. 84ff.
24 L. Ennen (Anm. 13) Nr. 29, S. 55.
25 Irsigler (Anm. 12) S. 84ff.
26 Irsigler (Anm. 12) S. 87.
27 Schulte (Anm. 2) S. 130.
28 H. Rothert, Geschichte der Stadt Osnabrück im Mittelalter
2. Osnabrücker Mitteilungen 58, 1938 (Osnabrück 1962) S. 93.
29 H. Kaiser, Der große Durst. Von Biernot und
Branntweinfeinden – rotem Bordeaux
und schwarzem Kaffee. Trinken und Getränke zwischen Weser und Ems
im 18./19. Jahrhundert. Materialien und Studien zur Alltagsgeschichte und
Volkskultur Niedersachsens 23 (Cloppenburg 1995) S. 43f; Schulte (Anm. 2) S.
126, Anm. 2, zitiert eine Beschreibung des Grüssing genannten Tecklenburger
Grutbieres in dem „Liber de cerevisia“ betitelten Werk des Martinus Schoockius,
das 1661 in Groningen erschienen ist: „Silentio quoque praeteriri non bebet
cervisia, quae in comitatu Tecklenburgensi coquitur et vulgo Gruising dicitur,
haberique meretur cervisia ex parte medicatat: parum lupuli eam ingreditur, sed
eius loco myrtus Sylvestris (Brabanticae non absimilis) ab incolis porsse
dicta, a Belgis gagel, cui odoratae admodum, molis peculiaribus semen
excutiunt: item baccae lauri et herba, quam vocant Scharpe tonge: haec simul
contunduntur et fermentationem procurant. Ipse vero potus potissimum refert et
odore et sapore myrtum sylvestrem, atque cito inebriant illos, que ei non
assueverunt.“
30 Loesch (Anm. 6) Nr. 250, S. 63f.
31 Loesch (Anm. 6) Nr. 250, S. 63f.
32 Loesch (Anm. 6) Nr. 256, S. 67f.
33 J. J. Meyer, Vollständige Vergleichungs-Tabellen der
ehemals im Ruhr-Departement und noch in den angränzenden Ländern gebräuchlichen
Münzen, Maaßen und Gewichte (Cöln 1804); vgl. hierzu E. Wisplinghoff, Geschichte
der Stadt Neuss 1: Von den mittelalterlichen
Anfängen bis zum Jahre 1794 (Neuss
1975) S. 728.
34 Heutige Braugerste hat – je nach Körnungsgröße – eine
Dichte von 680-750 kg/m³.
35 Lau (Anm. 1) Nr. 191, S. 274 u. Nr. 226, S. 308.
Friday, November 10, 2017
Die Grutamtsrechnungen der stadt Münster - Ilse Eberhardt
Ilse Eberhardt. The gruit council receipts of the city of Munster. Neue Folge, 19. Band, 2002.
Translated by Susan Verberg, 2017.
The guit council receipts. page 16-19 .
For a better
understanding of the gruit council receipts it is first necessary to explain the
term grut and give a brief overview of the Munster brewing and beer taxation. In the middle
Ages, grut was a collective term for both a spice mixture, needed for beer
brewing, as well as for the beer and the tax levied on it. Grutbier, also
called Grüsing, was common, especially in Westphalia, the Lower
Rhine and the southern the Netherlands.23 Instead of or in addition to
a small amount of hops, this spice was a mixture of different ground spicing
plants or their seeds. Every beer-brewing town kept the recipe of the mix
secret, but the main ingredients were essentially the same. As indicated by the
entries in the Munster
council receipts, three plants with the names porsen,
sermentangen and beckeler were used for grut.24
Both the bog myrtle shrub (Lat. Myrica
gale) and the similar-smelling bog rosemary (Latin Ledum palustre) were called
Porsen or porßen. Both are Nordic
moorland plants and were used as a hop substitute for beer brewing. Bog myrtle
grew in the Dutch province of Gelderland, in northern Münsterland and near
Tecklenburg; bog rosemary, however, was found mainly in the northeast German
bogs, in Silesia, Bohemia
and Moravia.
Westphalia, the Lower Rhine and the Netherlands used the local bog
myrtle in Grut.25 The Munster grut owners bought pors mainly from local
merchants, but also from a merchant from Lüneburg.
The name sermentangen evidently
goes back to old names of the mountain laser herb (Lat. Laserpitium siler [fam. Apiaceae]),
which were siler montanum, sermontandum or sirmendana. The plant is native to the Southern Alps and is known
by the name of rosskümmel and sesame herb. In the grut council receipts is
mention of kattelonyes sermentangen,
which seems to indicate an origin from Catalonia,
probably from the Pyrenees. [kümmel or cumin, Cuminum cyminum, is visually
similar to Laserpitium siler (fam. Apiaceae) but is native to the Mediterranean. To confuse matters, caraway Carum
carvi (fam. Apiaceae), sometimes called fennel, was derived from the Latin cuminum (cumin) and is native to
northern Europe. Neither are laserwort or rosskümmel]
Beckeler was also sourced from outside, which in 1533 is
indicate with additional freight costs. According to the bills of the 1540s,
deliveries often came from Antwerp.
The name probably comes from Middle Dutch bakelaer
/ bekelere, which is derived from the
Latin bacca lauri. It may be laurel,
bay laurel or the laurel-like daphne (Latin Daphne
laureola) with sharp, pepper-tasting berries. The name also resembles with
“beckberen”, various types of blueberries and cranberry species, which were
said to produce noise-like conditions [drunkeness], as well as with “beckholder”,
the juniper.
The grain base consisted mainly of barley and brewing grain (brunkorn),
which meant wheat or a mixture of different types of grain suitable for
brewing.26 Added to this was barley malt, malt from Brunkorn and a small amount of hops, which, like other spices, was
bought in Brabant. The bills do not give an
indication as to whether the oats noted for the brewing ingredient purchases
were also used in beer brewing or as horse feed for the municipal horses,
however, the use of oats as a brewing ingredient is unlikely.27
Towards the end of the 15th century - as well as in other cities of
northwestern Germany and the
Netherlands
- Koitbier (koyt) reached an ever
more important market. Because of a higher hop content it was more durable and
thus suitable for export. In addition gestber
was brewed in small amounts, a hopped Hefebier
[yeast
beer] similar to today's Altbier. The
consumption of food-grade beer was considerable in the Middle Ages. The Munster brewing trade
had a high rank as well: a brewing order of the year 1591 shows there were 56
brewers in it city,28 not counting the small bar owners and private people, who
were allowed to brew for their own consumption. The city owned the grutright
since 1278, which had been gradually acquired over 13 years from the bishop
and which entitled the city to brew beer and to raise a tax on the sale. Over
time, commercial brewers took over this brewing right through purchase or lease.
A certain amount of grut beer was brewed and tapped by the city but on the city's own
account. The gruter, a municipal
employee, was solely commissioned to make the grut, and the brewers were
required to buy the grut they needed for brewing from the city. They were
subject to strict council regulations regarding the recipe and selling price of
beer. The grut tax was directly paid to the grut office, while the excise tax for
other beers was received by beer masters, who in turn took the money to the
chamberlains and the grut masters. Due to high beer production, the revenue
from the sales of grut, the urban grut beers and beer tax for grut beer, kuit
beer and gestbeer [barley beer?] formed the basis of the urban financial
budget.
The grut office had its seat in
the grut house, called in the receipts hus
or huys, which lay directly behind
the town hall in the still existing Gruetgasse.30 In addition to its function
as a brewery, it offered a representative place for festivities. In the
immediate vicinity were writing and council archives, so that the municipal
administrative institutions were located in close proximity. The building
complex also housed the city's private stables and a prison.
Die Grutamtsrechnungen. p.16-19
Für ein beseres Verständnis der Grutamtsrechnungen ist es
zunächst erforderlich, den Begriff grut22 zu erläutern und einen kurzen
Überblick über das münsterische Brauwesen und die Bierbesteuerung zu geben.
Grut war im Mittelalter ein Sammelbegriff sowohl für eine Gewürzmischung, die
zum Bierbrauen benötigt wurde, als auch für das Bier und für die darauf
erhobene Steuer. Verbreitet war Grutbier, auch Grüsing genannt, besonders in
Westfalen, am Niederrhein und in den südlichen Niederlanden.23 Statt oder neben
einer geringe Menge von Hopfen wurde diesem eine Mischung aus verschiedenen
zermahlenen Gewürzpflanzen beziehungsweise deren Samen zugesetzt. Das rezept
dieer Mischung hielt jede Bier brauende Stadt geheim, aber die Hauptbestanteile
waren im Wesentlichen gleich. Nach den Eintragungen in den Grutamtsrechnungen
verwendete man in Münster für die Grut drei Planzen mit den Namen porsen, sementangen und beckeler.24
Porsen oder porßen nannte man sowohl den Gagelstrauch
(lat.myrica gale) als auch den ähnlich riechenden Sumpf-Porst (lat. Ledum
palustre). Beide sind nordische Heidemoorpflanzen und wurden als Hopfenersatz
beim Bierbrauen gebraucht. Der Gagelstrauch wuchs im niederländischen Geldern,
im nördlichen Münsterland und in der Nähe von Tecklenburg, der Sumpf-Porst
dagegen kam hauptsächlich in den nordostdeutschen Mooren, in Schlesien, Böhmen
und Mähren vor. In Westfalen, am Niederrhein und in den Niederlanden wurde für
die Grut der heimische Gagel gebraucht.25 Die münsterischen Grutherren kauften
Porst überwiegend bei ortsansäßigen
Händlern, aber auch bei einem Kaufmann aus Lüneburg.
Die Bezeichnung sermentangen geht
offenbar auf alte Namen des Berg-Laserkrautes (lat. Laserpitum siler) zurück, die siler
montanum, sermontandum oder sirmendana lauteten. Die Pflanze ist im
Südlichen Alpenraum beheimatet und ach unter den Namen Rosskümmel und Seselkraut
bekannt. In den Grutamtsrechnungen ist von kattelonyes sermentangen die Rede,
was auf eine Herkunft aus Katalonien, Wahrscheinlich aus den Pyrenäen,
hinzudeuten scheint.
Auch beckeler wurde von außerhalb bezogen, worauf 1533
zusätzliche Frachtkosten hinweisen. Den Grutamtsrechnungen der 1540er Jahre
sufolge kamen die Lieferungen häufig aus Antwerpen. Der Name stammt deswegen
vermutlich von Mittelniederländisch bakelaer / bekelere, das von lat. bacca
lauri abgeleitet ist. Es kann sich dabei um Lorbeer, Lorbeerkraut oder den
lorbeerähnlichen Seidelbast (lat. Daphne laureola) mit scharfen, nach Pfeffer
schmeckenden Beeren handeln. Der Name hat ebenfalls Ähnlichkeit mit beckberen,
verschiedenen Heidel- und Preiselbeerarten, denen man die Erzeugung
rauschähnlicher Zustände nachsagte, sowie mit beckholder, dem Wacholder.
Als Getreidebasis dienten
hauptsächlich Gerste und Braukorn (brunkorn), womit Weizen oder eine Mischung
verschiedener zum Brauen geeigneter Getreidearten gemeint ist.26 Hinzu kamen
Gerstenmalz, Malz aus Brunkorn und eine geringe Menge Hopfen, der wie andere
Gewürze in Brabant eingekauft wurde. Die Rechnungen geben keine Auskuft
darüber, ob der Hafer, der bie den Einkäufen für die Brauzutaten vermerkt ist,
ebenfalls beim Bierbrauen verarbeitet wurde oder als Pferdefutter füur die
städtischen Pferde gedacht war, jedoch ist eine Verwendung von Hafer als
Brauzutat nicht anzunehmen.27
Gegen Ende des 15. Jahrhunderts
erreichte in Münster – wie auch in anderen Städten des nordwestdeutschen und
niederländischen Raums – das Koitbier (koyt) einen immer bedeutenderen Absatz.
Es war durch einen höheren Hopfenanteil haltbarer und so auch für den Export
geeignet. Ausserdem wurde in geringen Mengen gestber gebraut, ein gehopftes
Hefebier ähnlich dem heutigen Altbier. Der Verzehr an Bier, das als
Nahrungsmittel galt, war im Mittelalter beträchtlich. Auch in Münster hatte das
Braugewerbe einen Hohen Rang: Nach einer Brauordnung des Jahrn 1591 gab es 56
Brauer in er Stadt,28 nicht gerechnet die kleinen Schankwirte und Privatleute,
die für den eigenen Bedarf brauen durften. Seit 1278 besass die Stadt das Grutrecht,
das sie innerhalb von 13 Jahren nach und nach vom Bischof erworben hatte und
das sie berechtigte, Bier zu brauen und auf den Verkauf eine Steuer zu erheben.
Im Laufe der Zeit übernahmen gewerbsmässige Brauer dutch Kauf oder Pacht das
Braurecht. Eine gewisse Menge Grutbier wurde von der Stadt aber weiter auf
eigenen Rechnung gebraut und verzapft. Der Gruter, ein städtischer
Angestellter, hatte allein den Auftrag, die Grut herzustellen, und die Brauer
waren verpflichtiet, die von ihnen zum Brauen benötigte Grut bei der Stadt zu
kaufen. Sie unterlagen hinsichtlich der Rezeptur und des Verkaufspreises von
Bier strengen Vorschriften der Rates.29 Die Grutakzise zahlten sie direkt an
das Grutamt, während die Akzisen für die anderen Biere von Bierherren eingenommen
wurden, die das Geld widerum an die Kämmerer und an die Grutherren abführten.
Aufgrund der hohen Bierproduktion bildetet die Einnahmen aus dem Verkauf der
Grut, des städtischen Grutbieres und der Bierakzise für Grutbier, Koitbier und
Gestbier die Grundlage des städtischen Finanzhaushaltes.
Das Grutamt hatte seinen Sitz im
Gruthaus, in den Rechnungen hus oder huys genannt, das direkt hinter dem
Rathaus in der heute noch existierenden Gruetgasse lag.30 Neben seiner Function
als Brauhaus bot es Repräsentationräumer für Festlichkeiten. In unmittelbarer
Nachbarschaft befanden sich Schreiberei und Ratsarchiv, so das die städtischen
Verwaltungsinstitutionen in räumlicher Nähe angesiedelt waren. In dem
Gebäudekomplex waren auch der Stadteigene Pferdestall und ein Gefängnis
untergebracht.
Friday, October 13, 2017
Primary resources for ALE, BRAGGOT & BEER
A first start on historic sources for ale, beer and braggot.
BEFORE 1600
Nasrallah, Nawal. Annals of the Caliphs’ Kitchens, The Finnish Oriental Society, 60 Helsinki, 1987. The Netherlands, Leiden: Koninklijke Brill NV, 2007
A recipe for i‘māl al-fuqqā‘ (malted barley)
A recipe for fuqqā‘ made with khubz samīdh
A recipe for fuqqā‘ al-aruzz (rice beer)
A recipe for fuqqā al-lawz (almond beer)
A recipe for fuqqā‘ Qarashī, flavored with spices
Fuqqā‘ al-‘asal (alcohol-free honey beer, or short mead)
Another honey beer
Another [honey] beer recipe
William SAYERS. BREWING ALE IN WALTER OF BIBBESWORTH’S 13 C. FRENCH TREATISE FOR ENGLISH HOUSEWIVES Studia Etymologica Cracoviensia vol. 14 Kraków 2009
www.ejournals.eu/sj/index.php/SEC/article/download/1062/1058
Now the French for mashing malt and brewing ale
Medische en technische Middelnederlandse recepten, 16th century
editie Willy L. Braekman. 1973.
http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_med002medi01_01/
630. Om bier dat het nyet suert.
W.L. de Vreese (ed.), Middelnederlandsche geneeskundige recepten en tractaten, zegeningen en tooverformules. A. Siffer, Gent 1894 Bron, © 2004
http://www.dbnl.org/tekst/_mid002midd01_01/colofon.php
384. Omme bier, dat cranc es, beter te makene
385. Om te maken goet bier
The Customs of London, otherwise called Arnold’s Chronicle, 1503
London : PRINTED FOR F. C. AND J. RIVINGTON; T. PAYNE; WILKIE AND ROBINSON, LONGMAN, I1URST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN; CADELL AND DATIES ; J. MAWMAN ; AND R. II. EVANS. 1811.
https://books.google.com/books?id=BfxBAAAAYAAJ&dq=customs+of+london+otherwise+called+arnold%27s+chronicle&source=gbs_navlinks_s
To brewe Beer.
Andrew Boorde, A Compendious Regiment or A Dyetary of Helth. 1542
https://ia800205.us.archive.org/8/items/fyrstbokeintrod01boorgoog/fyrstbokeintrod01boorgoog.pdf
The .110. Chapitel dothe shewe of dronkennes.
Of ale.
Of bere.
The Cookbook of Sabina Welserin, 1553
Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin. Hg. von Hugo Stopp. Mit einer Übersetzung von Ulrike Gießmann. Heidelberg: Universitätsverlag C. Winter Heidelberg, 1980 (Germanische Bibliothek: N.F.: Reihe 4, Texte).
http://www.staff.uni-giessen.de/gloning/tx/sawe.htm
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html
174 What to do to beer, so that it can be kept for a long time without becoming sour
Magnus, Olauf. Historia de Gentibus Septentrionalibus, 1555.
http://runeberg.org/olmagnus/
http://heinonline.org (restricted access)
Olaus Magnus. A Compendious History of the Goths & Vandals and Other Northern Nations (History of the Nothern People), 1658.
http://www.hakluyt.com/Hakluyt-Society-Publications/second_series_187.htm
Book XIII
30. On a method of brewing beer among the Ethiopians
31. Making the same beer in a different way
Of the manner of drinking amongst the Northern People.
Knaust, Heinrich. Von der edlen und hochthewren göttlichen gabe und kunst, Bier zu brawen ... Bawmann, 1574 [MS]
https://books.google.com/books?id=if1lAAAAcAAJ&num=13&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_7_mylibrary
Twyne, Thomas. The schoolemaster, or teacher of table philosophie. Gathered out of diuers, the best approued auctours: and deuided into foure pithy and pleasant treatises, as it may appeare by the contentes. 1576
Chap. 8. Of strong or double Ale.
William Harrison: Description Of Elizabethan England, 1577
http://sourcebooks.fordham.edu/halsall/mod/1577harrison-england.asp
Our drink, whose force and continuance is partly touched already...
Our malt is made all the year long...
The best malt is tried by the hardness and colour...
Having therefore ground eight bushels of good malt...
In this trade also our brewers observe very diligently...
Bullein, William. Bulleins bulwarke of defence against all sicknesse. 1562 (1579)
What is the vertue of Beere and Ale?
Kobrer, Christoph. Gründliche und Nütze Beschreibung der Weinhawer und Bierbrewer-Practick und der ganzen Kellermeister-Kunst. Burger, 1581 [MS]
https://books.google.com/books?id=0bqggM3u6SkC&num=13&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_7_mylibrary
Matthias Lobelius (l'Obel). Kruydtboeck oft beschrijvinghe van allerleye ghewassen, kruyderen, hesteren ende gheboomten. Christoffel Plantijn, 1581.
https://books.google.com/books?id=hCJNAAAAcAAJ&dq=naebier&source=gbs_navlinks_s
Graut of Naerbier wordt aldus ghemaeckt
A Good Huswifes Handmaide, 1594
http://www.foodsofengland.co.uk/book1594huswife.htm
To make Buttered Beere.
Johann Coler. Oeconomia oder Haußbuch: Zum Calendario Oeconomico & perpetuo gehörig. Darinnen begriffen vnd aussfürlichen erkleret ist, Wie ein jeder Hausswirth, nachdem Ihn Gott der Allmechtige gesegnet, ferner seine Nahrung nechst Gott anstellen soll .... 1. Hellwig, 1596 [MS]
https://books.google.com/books?id=7JE9DbNIMa8C&num=13&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_9_mylibrary
Hugh Platt, Delightes for Ladies, (1594) 1609
http://eebo.chadwyck.com/
27. The true bottling of beere.
32. Diuers excellent kindes of bottle Ale.
Hugh Platte. The Jewell House of Art and Nature, conteining diverse rare and profitable Inventions, together with sundry new experimentes in the Art of Husbandry, Distillation, and Moulding. London: Peter Short, 1597.
https://bookeofsecretes.blogspot.com/2017/01/hugh-platts-brewing-recipes-and-tips.html
9 How to brew good and wholsom Beere without anie Hoppes at all.
25 A speedie or present drinke which travailers may make for themselves (ex tempore) when they are distressed for want of good Beer or Ale at their Inne.
62 To helpe beere that beginneth to soure ir is dead.
65 To make ale or beere to become stale in a short time.
69 How to prevent drunkennesse.
77. How to keepe Claret wine, or any other wine good, many yeares together.
97 How to put severall liquors or Wines in one Glasse, without mixing.
5. Divers excellent kindes of bottle Ale to be made with the aforesaid oyles.
From Naturall and artificial directions for health deriued from the best philosophers, as well moderne, as auncient. By William Vaughan, Master of Artes, and student in the ciuill law. By William Vaughan, 1600. Copy from the British Library, via EEBO.
Chap. 1. Of bread and drink. [beer, ale, mead]
What is the vse of beere?
What is the vse of Ale?
How shall I discerne good ale from bad?
Which is the best drink?
Shew mee a speedie drink for trauellers
What shall poore men drink, when malt is ex|treame deare?
How shall I help beere or ale, which beginne to be sowre or dead?
Teach mee a way to make beere or ale to be|come stale
IN BETWEEN 1600-1650
Heinrich Knaus. Fünff Bücher von der göttlichen und edlenn Gabe der philosophischen. Cornetto Verlag, 1998 (1614) [MS]
https://books.google.com/books?id=I8sgAQAAIAAJ&num=13&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_9_mylibrary
Cruydt-boeck van Rembertus Dodonaeus, (1608) 1618.
https://books.google.com/books?id=SANfAAAAcAAJ&dq=naebier&source=gbs_navlinks_s
Maer het dick verzoden Naerbier
Engelschen Ael wordt aldus gemaect:
Gervase Markham. The Egnlish Hus-wife (1615). London, 1675
http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/browse?type=title&index=15703&key=english+house+wife+containing+the+inward+and+outward+vertues+which+ought+to+be+in+a+compleat+woman&c=c
http://mdc.cbuc.cat/cdm/singleitem/collection/fonsgrew/e/id37
The Office of the Maltster, the Secrets and knowledge thereof.
Of the Excellency of Oats, and the many singular vertues and use of them in a Family.
Of the office of the Brew-house, and the Bake-house, and the necessary things belonging to the same. [long transcription]
https://bookeofsecretes.blogspot.com/2017/05/markhams-of-office-of-brew-house-and.html
Koge Bog: Indeholdendis et hundrede fornødene stycker etc. Kiøbenhaffn (Copenhagen): Aff Salomone Sartorio, 1616. Henry Notaker's Old Cookbooks and Food History First printed Nordic cookbook
http://www.notaker.com/onlitxts/kogebog.htm
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/cooking/1616.html
Chapter II. About brewing.
Venner, Tobias. Via Recta ad Vitam Longam, or, A plain Philosophical Demonstration of the Nature, faculties and Effects of all such things. London: 1636.
https://archive.org/details/TobiasVennerViaRectaAdVitamLongamOrAPlainPhilosophical
Whether Beere be more wholesome than Ale.
Cogan, Thomas. The Haven of Health, 1584. London: Anne Griffin, 1636
https://ia800500.us.archive.org/22/items/havenofhealthchi00coga/havenofhealthchi00coga.pdf
Chap. 218. Of Ale and Beere.
AFTER 1650
Schoock, Marten (Martinus Schookius). Liber de cerevisia. 1661
[first book on historic beer]
Carolus Dattum. Het Secreet-Boek Vol Heerlijcke Konsten, in veelerley Materien. Leewarden, 1664 (googlebook)
Om een Bier te beteren dat slap gheworden is.
Meibom, Johann Heinrich (Joan Heinrici Meibomii). De Cervisiis potibusque & ebriaminibus extra vinum aliis commentarius. Accedit Adr. Turnebi libellus, De Vino. Published: Helmestadii, typis & sumtibus Johannis Heitmulleri, 1668.
http://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/book/lookupname?key=Meibom%2C%20Johann%20Heinrich%2C%201590-1655
https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100153435
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.31175035222432;view=1up;seq=5
Digby, Kenelme. The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelme Digby Knight Opened, 1669 The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened. Anne MacDonell (ed.), 2005
https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16441
SCOTCH ALE FROM MY LADY HOLMBEY
TO MAKE ALE DRINK QUICK
ALE WITH HONEY
SMALL ALE FOR THE STONE
MR. WEBB'S ALE AND BRAGOT
David Kellner. Hochnutzbar und bewährte Edle Bierbrau-Kunst, 1690 [MS]
https://books.google.com/books?id=7wadyA8YLZYC&num=13&source=gbs_slider_cls_metadata_7_mylibrary
Thomas Tryon, A new art of brewing beer, ale, and other sorts of liquors. 1690
https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo/A63802.0001.001/1:3?rgn=div1;view=fulltext
Randle Holme. The Academy of armory, or, a storehouse of armory and blason. 1688
dictionary of brewing terms
https://quod.lib.umich.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=eebo;idno=A44230
THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER- ANONYMOUS 1736
http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/8900
George Watkins (brewer.) The Complete English Brewer; Or, The Whole Art and Mystery of Brewing, in All Its Various Branches ... J. Cooke, 1773 (first edition 1767)
https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Complete_English_Brewer_Or_The_Whole.html?id=elBHAAAAYAAJ
T. POOLE (Butler to Sir W. Aston.) A Treatise on Strong Beer, ale, &c. fully explaining the art of Brewing, etc. 1782
https://books.google.com/books?id=YeRhAAAAcAAJ&dq=a+treatise+on+strong+beer&source=gbs_navlinks_s
BRAGGOTS
(medieval spiced honey ale; not a mead)
A Hymn to Ninkasi, Sumerian clay tablet, 1800 BCE
http://www.openculture.com/2015/03/the-oldest-beer-recipe-in-history.html
Ninkasi Beer [likely a braggot]
Dictionary of Obsolete and Provincial English by Thomas Wright,
1886
https://archive.org/details/dictionaryobsol02unkngoog Vol.I A-G
https://archive.org/details/dictionaryobsol05wriggoog Vol.II G-Z
To make Bragotte.
Hieatt, Constance B. & Butler, Sharon (ed). Curye on Inglysch, English culinary manuscripts of the 14th century (including Forme of Cury). Early English Text Society. London: Oxford University Press, 1985.
Curye on Inglysch, 14th century. Part V Goud Kokery, MS Royal 17. A. iii
8 Ad faciendum brakott.
Curye on Inglysch, 14th century. Part IV: Forme of Cury.
205 Clarrey and Braggot.
The Customs of London, otherwise called Arnold’s Chronicle, 1503
https://books.google.com/books?id=BfxBAAAAYAAJ&dq=customs+of+london+otherwise+called+arnold%27s+chronicle&source=gbs_navlinks_s
For Braket.
The Haven of Health. Chiefely gathered for the comfort of Students, and consequently of all those that have a care of their health. By Thomas Coghan, 1584.
https://ia800500.us.archive.org/22/items/havenofhealthchi00coga/havenofhealthchi00coga.pdf
Chap.238 To make Bragget.
Jewell House of Art and Nature by Hugh Platt, 1594.
http://eebo.chadwyck.com/ (only in individual TIFF files)
74 The making of a Bragget.
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